All creatures cute and cuddly

This will have to be an extra long blog as our week of camping and travelling has been so full we have not had time to stop and sit! After picking up our swanky hire car in Adelaide we headed for the great outdoors!

We had barely left Adelaide when we hit McLaren Vale, a vine growing region of picturesque hills and countless wineries. It seemed utterly peaceful so we headed for the incredibly helpful information centre, the first of many where staff seemed to genuinely take pleasure in making our holiday fantastic, and soon headed for a tranquil campsite bu Maslims Beach- a sandy stretch surrounded by lilac and green coastal shrubbery. After pitching our tent in a field of inquisitive ducks we headed for a stroll along the shore. It was really pleasant to be on a temperate, as opposed to a tropical, beach, the breeze cool and jumpers on as we made footprints in the sand. Although scattered with seaweed and a chill in the air the place was endearing due to the more rugged feel it conjured and we both compared it to Cornwall. Once again Australia has satisfied our love of all things homely.

Heading back to camp we made use of the covered on site kitchen- a cheats barbecue offering access to a regular stove and a kettle, and even some TV, whilst we prepared our food! Still needing to purchase a camp stove the creature comforts were appreciated and we rolled into our sleeping bags for the night content and full of a sense of adventure.

Waking the next morning we were keen to travel further inland (though a short distance) for access to the 'wine trail'. Both feeling like utter novices we put on our smartest clothes and planned stories of our upcoming wedding in order to avoid disapproving "you-don't-know-what-you're-doing-here" looks. Driving through the countryside on a Sunday, Blake at the wheel whilst I apply my make up, we could have been driving to West Meon for a roast dinner. Coming to our first cellar door we pulled up to a magnificent view across the hills and headed in.

Almost immediately we were ready to turn back. there were two waiters, shelves of bottles and a couple looking at a list and ordering in whatever they knew the right way was. Muttering under our breath plans to make an escape a waiter approached and asked if he could help. Bugger- we'd have to do it now! I decided honesty was the best policy and explained we had never done this before so were true beginners, to which he seemed to take delight in showing us what it's all about and how to approach the task at hand. Placing the list in front of us he explained the spectrum of red and white and described in layman's terms what people are talking about when they describe wine in all those flamboyant ways. He was very friendly and genuinely interested in our opinions, of which we formed a few and have decided a similar experience may be called for prior to catering for our upcoming nuptials!

After tasting each wine and being told spitting is no longer encourages, simply sips and pouring the rest away, we realised we wouldn't be doing this too many times today. The vineyards were all driving distances apart but the scenery along the way spectacular, so we just took that in as we headed past many up to a small cluster of cellar doors backing on to a wildlife reserve. Heading into the next place the atmosphere was a little more pretentious and though friendly, the waiters seemed a little less genuine in their interest in our amateur opinions. When we were given a sip from a $60 bottle and told to "look at the art as you savour the flavour, it's layer upon layer for the palate" the sophistication became too much for us so we decided to take inappropriate pictures around the corner of silly faces and after a few moments of "savouring the flavour", a little beyond the comprehension of novice wine tasters, necked the lot and headed for a nice walk instead!

Heading down into the park we were met by large hills and valleys covered in dry grass, giving the impression of golden fur. Walking through we came to a dense patch of bushes and suddenly, bounding through, we spotted our first kangaroo in the wild! As has happened many times since, Blakey's face lit up with pure excitement as we grabbed our cameras and stared capturing the iconic Aussie wildlife. He nearly wet himself when an entire herd bounded across the hills a few minutes later!

Returning to a closer campsite with a newly acquired stove we rustled up some tasty camp tucker and I was asleep as it turned dark. Days like this seem to make anyone sleep extra soundly, but Blakey's new found love of my Nintendo DS kept him working out logic puzzles until late. Not a problem until this led to a midnight toilet session in which zips were extra loud and movement in the tent unnecessarily large as he clambered out of his sleeping bag and into his trousers. Being woken from sch a deep sleep I opened my eyes with an endearing "I hate you!"

However, I made it up the next morning when the sun woke me super early. Sneaking out of the tent (without a commotion I might add) I left a soundly sleeping Blake. After a shower and organising breakfast I awoke my beloved with the gently wafting smells of bacon and we enjoyed a hearty cooked breakfast before starting our long drive around the coast.

First up we headed an hour and a half through winding country lanes to Port Elliot where the pretty golden beach was being hit by atmospheric white waves. We ordered coffees at the beach side cafe and soaked up the golden sunlight. Like McLaren Vale, the whole of this area, known as the Fleurieu Peninsular, has an incredibly tranquil vibe. It was wonderfully romantic for a young couple like us but we did notice the number of 'boules clubs' at these locations and grey hair of many of the other patrons! I am sure that our enjoyment of this area will fuel taunts from my friends about just how old I am! Coffees slurped we headed to the warm sand for some silly pictures, though the cool breeze stopped us from staying too long. And just as well- we had a long way to drive today.

We broke up our trip with a couple more stops, one for the only public Internet in the area and another for tasty falafel wraps before the longing winding road through the Coorong National Park. Large flat scrub lands dotted with numerous salt lakes including one an unusual shade of pink, line our journey to Salt Creek where we headed for the bush and its true 'outback' campsites. Driving down long unsealed roads we found an isolated site. After pitching the tent we noticed a hole previously used as a toilet and the most humongous ants we've ever seen. Between 3 and 4cm long, the inquisitive insects clambered over our tent before we decided to relocate away from the sewage and insects. Lifting our tent through the bush we were soon satisfied with our new location (though no less sheltered from ants!) and went for a short stroll around the salt lakes.

After last night's disturbance and the more exposed setting of the bush Blakey bought an empty bottle to bed. A game of sudoku later and I was ready for a peaceful rest. once again my future spouse denied me this privilege- this time with almighty snores! As a result, all pictures of me from this point in include extended bags and a rather dull complexion. I am still waiting for a really good rest!

Heading from the camp the next morning over bumpy unsealed road, my incredibly muggy head and our lack of fresh milk demanded a stop for a pot of tea/. Not enough caffeine to compensate for the constant thunder emanating from my dribbling bed mate the previous night, I was revived a little and we headed back to the car. one of the nicest things about this journey has been access to a stereo, allowing us to listen to our music without the need for earphones- a real treat! This kept us entertained until our next stop at the much hyped Mount Gambier. Stopping in town to get some information we were soon to waste an hour and $30- our front number plate had dropped off somewhere along the way. Bugger bugger bugger! We were once again met with cheery customer services and a quick stop at the police station before heading to the 'Blue Lake'.

Water is often described as blue, I have described the seas we have been in as blue, but this was really, REALLY blue! In an ancient volcanic crater it was quite dazzling, especially when compared with the still picturesque but more normal lake at the base of the crater on the other side. That lake was surrounded by a park with manicured lawns and huge trees where we enjoyed a tasty picnic. Stretching our legs with a stroll after lunch Blake once again showed that childlike excitement as we spotted terrapins and birds in the water.

But that was just the start of it today! Another long track of scenic road and by late afternoon we were in Nelson. A very small town, we were dubious when a slightly strange lady told us there was nowhere really to camp so we could stay in her garden. Thinking of how many horror movies start with a similar pretence before revealing the isolated outback life has led the antihero to violent psychopathic behaviours, we were grateful when her friend turned up and pointed us in the direction of Glenelg National Park.

Another unsealed chalky road took us deep into the forests, bringing to mind the New Forest for us both, until suddenly an emu bolted across the path and along the road with us for quite a distance. They are so weir looking it is strange to think of them as real, wild creatures and not just zoo exhibits!

Reaching our campsite, another free option in the National Park, we realised that our spots had been getting progressively better each night. This time we were right next to the Glenelg River with a grassy paddock in front of us. here there were toilets, which were just large pits sheltered by corrugated iron, but it still gave a feeling of more protection than squatting over out sized ants! Not only that, but as we drove through it was clear there were hundreds of kangaroos here! Exploring the paddock near the toilets a number were grazing, including a mother with a joey safely stowed in her pouch. Blakey was ecstatic as he bounded around with as much energy as the kangaroos, camcorder in hand. As we settled down to rest for the night we could hear the thud of them as they approached so close to our tent, at one pint we were worried they might mow it down!

When we awoke the next morning things were quieter and we could only see traces that they had been there, including droppings on the roof of our car (what had they been up to?!) It was time for another early break in driving for a reviving pot of tea before heading to Port Fairy. Many books and people had spoken of this pretty place though it all seemed fairly suburban as we passed large seaside house and a very small main street to head for the wharf. Here we could smell before we could see a quality fish and chip shop, and the declarat6ion that it had been voted "foodies best Fish and Chips four years running" invited us to form our own opinions. Purchasing a delicious smelling portion alongside a handsome looking piece of butterfish for Blakey, we restrainedly resisted a taste until finding a spot by the sea. It was at this point that we recognised the fuss about Port Fairy. We quickly found ourselves walking across the boarded paths of the Griffiths Reserve, a collection of small sand bars and sheltered shallow waters that are home to Shearwater birds. Walking through the coastline shrubbery and out to the black volcanic rocks lining the shore we had a magnificent view of the very active ocean, large waves dramatically crashing, sending spray into the air as they hit the shore. To top it all off, the first taste of our proper seaside meal confirmed the accolades and has become my best chips ever- quite an achievement as I have eaten Moby's at St Ives!

Finishing the circular walk with views of the lighthouse we returned to our journey and on to the much hyped Port Campbell and its 12 Apostles National Park. After a long journey winding around the coastline with constant views of cliffs and waves we spotted a 'scenic lookout' sign and decided to pull over and see. We were greeted with the dramatic scenery of the Bay of Islands, a collection of eroded limestone structures, surrounded by frothy white waves. Continuing along the coast we stopped at the picturesque "Grotto" and aptly named "Arch" before finding another fantastic spot to camp, next to a river and less than 2 minutes walk from the coastline, though with the added luxury of an amenities block!

After pitching the tent we couldn't decide if we should have a very early dinner and see the apostles at sun set, of head out then and return whilst it was still light enough to cook. Thankfully we headed out then, as along the way we stopped at the 'blow hole', a site quite far inland where a tunnel through the limestone cliffs has caused a large reserve which the waves penetrate like a deep frothy lake; 'thunder cave' where the treacherous waves have carved a huge acoustic chamber causing booms to echo like thunder and the completely undersold 'Sherbrooke River' where a small stream met the tumultuous sea. Here we had access to the shore and scrambled across the limestone formations to get close to the most impressive waves either of us have ever seen- trying to take pictures as each hit the rocks we were standing on and sent spray metres up into the air really got the adrenaline pumping!

The sun was already starting to dip so we quickly headed round to the famous 12 Apostles, though in reality only 9 of them stand today and not all can be seen from the viewing platform. Magnificent as they were, the Australian tourist board was quite candid in the signs explaining they were named the 12 Apostles in the 50s to encourage more visitors! Definitely as splendid as I had imagined, I must admit that he others were just as stunning. We left before the sun set and as the crowds began to gather and headed for a lookout we had missed along the way- Loch Ard Gorge. Here we were completely alone and soon realised that the sun set directly between the rocks here- fer better framed than at the 12 Apostles! Fate had once again bought us to the right place at the right time.

Heading back we cooked in the pitch black with a tiny torch and the gas flame from the heater (although not long in the couple next door took pity and gave us a mossy-repellent candle!). Our latest night yet, and just as well as with the battery gone on my DS there was to be no bedtime sudoku!

Our penultimate day on the road started overcast and soon turned drizzly, but driving through the country roads it was even more like home. When we arrived mid morning at the Otway National Park we were excited to put our coats on and I even pulled out my pink hat to stop the wind in my ears. This is a area of ancient forest and we had come to do the Tree Top Walk in which a long section of boardwalks lead through the canopy. Excitedly walking through the woods we both wished we could have bought Patty, even more so when we reached a section of forest dotted with dinosaur models. Instead we made a magnificent film for his viewing pleasure and continued on!

When we reached he section that took us through the trees at first all seemed fine, but soon it had a strange effect on me. The structure is like a metal sus[pension bridge, held up with tension cables and large poles. This meant that the whole structure had a slight sway, similar to standing on a pontoon. That coupled with the swaying trees bought on a burst of vertigo leading me to hold the railings the whole way around! However, I was very brave climbing to the top of the tallest swaying tower and forcing myself to look over the edge ( and then descending just as large gusts of wind shock everything most dramatically causing my tummy to flip almost 17 times!). I even headed out on to the extended swaying arm that perilously over the plant life below. I was quite happy to return to solid ground at the end!

Further around the coast as the Great Ocean Road hugs the cliff face making for the sort of scenery you only see in car adverts and here, we reached Apollo Bay. This is a resort town and so we had read a lot about it, but the seafront shops and manicured parks were all a little too clean cut for us. After a coffee and a quick but expensive Internet check (tourist prices-yuk!) we decided to creep further up the coast to Kennett River where we had a chance of spotting the last of the iconic Aussie fauna- koalas!

Finding a quiet campsite right opposite a far more attractively rugged section of the coast we asked the proprietor for advice on where to spot the cuddly little creatures. Pulling out a map we were ready to take directions, but realised it was one of the small campsite. He highlighted pitches D16-D20 and said they usually like the trees around there, though there was on in the tree in his garden that morning! The moment we parked the car we spotted on n the tree right opposite us, then another in the next tree, and after that... there were loads!Blakey'ssmile was from ear to ear as he ran around,zoomin gin and out and waiting for them to move, asking if I'd seen each time they did! Not only that but there were dozens of brightly coloured parrots and at least 3 cockatoos,all willing to land on our car or fly at our heads in a Tikki like fashion! It was like camping in a zoo with no cages and having a very excitable boy to remind me how wonderful it all was!

And so we had just one day left on the road. Sad to leave the campsite (Blakey could have moved there permanently! we followed the road to Torquay surf beach. crawling with teens in wetsuits and possibly far more exciting if we had the money to take advantage of the huge surf wear outlets (it is the home of Quiksilver and Ripcurl) Finding it again a little too designed and manicured for tourists we passed through to Point Lonsdale for a more authentic feeling beach and a stroll along the jetty,with views of seaweed gardens through the clear calm waters.Just a couple of hours from Melbourne we set up our last camp though were not to last the night in the tent.Rain the previous evening had soaked through- it had kept us dry but a couple of drips seeping through in the morning had lowered my confidence in the lightweight piece of canvas that had been our home for the week. When an almighty thunderstorm blew in and crashed directly above us,lighting so bright it felt as though it was hit the ground in the tent with us, we decided to make a dash for the car. Soaked in the few paces it took to leave the tent and scramble in,we pushed back the passenger seats and rested surprisingly well- a dramatic conclusion to our fantastic Aussie adventure.