Monday, 9 November 2009

Asia All Over!

Ubud was the first place we were both genuinely sad to leave and we kept telling ourselves that the extremely large group of French tourists would have upset the atmosphere for us. After taking pictures of this now momentous location and its staff we headed for the coast of Sanur.

The guide book talks Sanur down, nicknaming it snore and devoting far more pages to the party town of Kuta, but our loved-up selves opted for the quieter site in search of another romantic patch. Finding a reasonably priced hotel with a beautiful garden and blissfully warm swimming pool complete with benches around the edges for prolonged lounging, we soon started to settle in.

First things first, we headed for a stroll along the white sandy beach just metres from our hotel. the sand was pure white, the sea aquamarine, the sun beating down. However, we both acknowledge that we are becoming beach snobs, as the sea weed washing in with the waves put us of slightly- I guess it is like wine connoisseurs who can't go back after developing their palates! Nevertheless, we enjoyed our stroll as we paddled along the shore and made plans for the next few days. For the rest of the afternoon, which was slipping away fast, we luxuriated in the swimming pool to which all other swimming pools will now be compared, whilst chatting to a self proclaimed "big mama", whose tired face still undermines her 60 years, the atmosphere here must have helped to retain an air of youth. She chatted openly about her big family of 5 children and plenty more grandchildren, how she lost her husband to cancer when her youngest son of 16 was just 6 months old and her struggles since then with two jobs, which although initially successful was still not quite enough after tourism dipped following the bombs. Even now the hotel is half empty and while we appreciate he solitude she is struggling to get by. I promised to employ her services before we leave as she offers massages by the pool for just 3 pounds and hour- a bargain in anyone's books!

The next day we could not resist a morning back by the pool before an early lunch and a trip to Jimbaran Bay. It is a beautiful stretch of coast that during the day is very quiet with the exception of locals fishing. to one side of the bay was a plethora of brightly coloured fishing boats, with many more bobbing out at sea. Behind the beach cafes lined the sand, almost empty but for the waiters, waiting for customers.


Heading to the each with Blakey is like a taste of parenthood. After laying out our towels I made myself comfortable for a relaxing moment in the sun whilst he headed 10 metres away to play in the sand. As I drifted in and out of consciousness I kept lifting my head to ensure he was OK and would catch glimpses of him building sandcastles, playing in the waves, looking back and waving for my attention. Every now and again he would come back and tell me his story of what he'd been up to or ask me to go and play too.


A few hours later and the repetitive sounds of the ocean had worked their magic and we were left feeling peaceful and rejuvenated. However, upon standing up it was apparent that half the beach was stuck to my body. Blakey had a similar problem, though his game "Monster Legs" may have had a part to play. Washing ourselves off in the warm sea we dressed and headed to one of the many tables that had appeared from the restaurants as the sun started to head for the ocean. At this point the beach started to get more busy, though we had already secured ourselves the best table for a full view of the sunset which we watched with huge cocktails served in coconuts. A perfect cliche yet again.

On to our last full day in Asia, quite a landmark and signifying a third of our journey completed. We are pretty excited to be crossing into a completely different continent! We had discussed grand plans to travel down the peninsular and see another temple and more spectacular beaches, but after waking late and heading to the pool it was all so perfect we couldn't bare to leave! Blakey slept for hours whislt I returned to our "big mama" for yet another massage, though this was by far the best! Her maternal confidence meant she poked and prodded me in ways that others may have shied away from, getting handfuls of bum and eyefuls of boob- only Danni has given me a better massage! She kneaded away all tension, finishing with my scalp and then plaited my hair- I think she enjoyed mothering me as much as I enjoyed the experience! I promised to come back when we return to Bali (in a couple of years?!!)

We finished our incredibly lazy day by writing postcards and diary entries. Indonesia has been incredible, the sights, the people and the most significant decision we have made so far. Bring on Australia!

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