After a long winding bus journey through thte mountains (though by our standards they seemed mere hills now!) we arrived in Luang Prabang. Greeted by a heap of guesthouse owners and tuk tuk drivers we settled for the cheapest and were taken to a beautifully located place right at the tip where the two rivers meet, opposite the oldest temple in town (saying something in a place like this!) We were given a room with views across the Mekong and after a quick refresh headed for an evening stroll around town.
People had told us how beautiful Luang Prabang was and we instantly agreed. the big colonial style houses along the quiet streets, palm trees and flowers dotted between and temple building adorned with Nagaprotected gates lined our way into the centre of this little town. As we followed the main street shops full of wooden handicrafts, silk scarves and jewellery caught our eye at various points before we reached the warmly lit night market, rows of stalls catering to the inevitable tourists with more interesting bits and bobs. Allowing the most gruesome things to catch his eye Blakey made a purchase before we realised how hungry we were and went to find a resturant.
Passing somewhere boasting a garden we haeded for a comfortable low table with two cushions in the hope of another romantic setting. Unfoprtunately all chances of that were dashed when our food was bought to the table! Having ordered Aloo Palak (the restaurant specialises in Laos, thai and Indian) the bowl of microwaved potatoes covered in green gunge did not live up to the photographed golden potatoe with fresh spinach I had been anticipating! We had such a keen waiter, it was his fist day on the job, and did not have the heart to send it back, but I didn't have the stomach to eat it either!
After an early night we took a lazy morning getting ready as the monsson rains hit our window outside. It was lovely lying righ under the pane as the torrents slid down the glass, just taking our time. When we did decide to emerge we bought an umbrela before exploring all the town had to offer. W climbed the magolia lined stairs to the top of Phu Si, a hil in the middle of town to see both Buddha's footprint (though if he was that big he was not human, and it is a little vague!)as well as enjoying the views of the town and the rivers. We walked around the Palace Museum where the royal famly ha lived until they were booted out by the revolution in the 70s and saw some amazing cars that Patrick would have loved (but couldn't take photos- sorry!) As we walked around the roms we were both touched by the modesty of it. there were three reception rooms, a throne room and three bedrooms. The reception rooms were beautiful, on with a mural all around that was supposed to be viewed at the corresponding time of day, so as the sun travelled from East to West the light would hit each section which depicted traditional everyday life. It was a beautiful concept. The throne room was the most spectacular, with glass mosaics depicting Laos myths making the walls sparkle, but the bedrooms were so humble (by royal standards) It was like Laos as a whole, enough for comfort, well made and solid but not pretentious and unnecessary.
After a more successful meal than the previous evening we headed for he NAtinal Ballet where sections of the Ramayana were being performed. HAving recently taught the story as part of our Indian Arts course at school I was excited to see a traditional performance. It was elaborately choreographed with sall intricate gestures to create meaning, though by Western standards the pace was a little slow. Still, the story, masks and costumes were spectacle enough and whilst not living up to our Chinese theatre experiences we were pleased to be a part of the udiene.
Next day we had an early start, organising our belongings for a short trip out of town. We were going tobe Mahouts! Mahout is he name given to elephant drivers (after Henri Mahout, the guy who rediscovered Angkor Wat and rode elephants to explore Laos) We wer heading to the camp just outsidethe city where elephants that had previusly been used for logging have maintained employment by proiding rides fo tourists. It is easy work for the elephants and creates a symbiotic relationship between the elephants and the locals who run the organisation.
After arriving with just two other couple we were given denim suits that look like pyjamas and asked to change. As we were staying at the camp with one of the other couples we were shown to our riverside lodge which was AMAZING! A wooden cabin on stilts, the patio doors to the verrandah look straight out across the water with the upper section open to the sloped roof, allowing the air to circulate the large room. Inside are two double beds and four tree trunks supporting the building. At the back is a bathroom, againopen air beneath the roof. It is absolutely beautiful- fit for a honeymoon!
Aftre changing we were taken to a platform where three elephants fitted with riding chairs were waiting for us. Blakey and I jumped on the back of Kha Phan who was being driven by a very smiley man sat around her neck. For the next two hours the elephants trekked around the muddy paths and streams of the surrounding jungle, ours stopping every few feet to rip half a tree out of the ground and stiate her mammoth apetite! We felt so lucky as we swayed from side to side to the slow, ryhthmic gait of the creature- we were obviously getting a far longer outing than advertised as the low season had bought just the six of us to the park.
Halfway around the course our driver turned grinning to Blakey and motioned taht he shuld take the neck. In a very brave move Blakey agreed and a minute later, aftre abalancing acting on the shoulder blades, Blakey was sat with his legs hanging either side of the elephant, tucked behind each ear, resting his hands on the creature's huge head.
After 10 minutes of seeing that Blakey was quite competant some of the others followed and a had a try, and after 45 minutes Blakey and I swapped positions. It was strange to sit so close to the elephant, aware of it's huge size. At first I was worried about holding on to its head in this way, but aftre moments of being in position it was clear that our comparatively meagre size did not bother it at all. its head was covered in wiry black hairs, and with each step its shoulder baldes pushed against my thighs- comfortable for the first ride but a little tender by the second!
We we returned to the camp we were all buzzing, it had been an incredible experience and it had happened so early n the day. Enough time had passd for us to get lunch, and oevr our food we were taugt the MAhout calls, sort of a Hghway Code!
After lunch it was straight back to riding, though this time it was an elephant each to be driven by the learners whilst the MAhouts lazed in the seats on their backs. Unfortunately my Mahout didn't make it in time so I shared with Blakey, though this meant we both got to ride with our miley man again. As we led the elephants with calls of "Bai BAi Bai" we realised we were actually quite good at this! The elephants still eat when tey want (despite calls of "ya ya!" but we did ok!
After a second trek out we were already startingto feel like it had been a full day. Once we got back to the camp the MAhouts took the seats off and drapped large chains over the elephants necks. Another MAhout had turned up npw so I was the first to climb aboard the new elephant, though this time by "map Long', with the elephant laying down so I could climb on its knee and swing my legs over (though not as gracefully as that might sound!)
We headed back into the woods and down a small stream which emerged into a much larger river. We were goign to bathe the elphants, so whilst w clung to their necks the mahouts asked them to lie down, submerging our thighs as well. As they splashed water onto the elephants' heads we scrubbed the dirt and leaves out of teir bristly hair and stroked the topof their heads before the mahouts called "boun boun", at which point the elephants took their cue to splash as much as possible, either by smashing their heads up and down or siphoning water and sprayin git back at us. In no time at all we were utterly drenched- it was amazing!
After messig around in the river we were all starting to get quite tired, ut first we rode the elephants to the jungle where we said goodbye to the mahouts who took them to a place with planty of food for the night. We learned that they only sleep for 30 minutes and spend the rest of the night eating. Having seen how much they eat during the day it is obvious they could clear huge amount of land, which is why this reserve is so nice. Here, locals grow food especially for the elephants as they provide an income, where as wild elephents have ruined crops in other parts of Laos, angering farmers.
The final part of the day saw one of the couples leave before the rest of us tubed down the river, relaxing in large inflatable tyres as the currents took us throughthe lush scenery. Just at the end a torrential downpour hit and suddenly we were drenched and cold. We rushed back to our cabins an jumped under the most satisfying hot shower in a while. After a pleasant dinner with a lovely American couple here on their honeymoon we headed for another ridiculously early night.
The early night was followed by an early morning, meeting our guide at 6.30am to retrieve the elephants from the jungle. We rode them straight to the river for a bath, which did as much to awake and refresh us as it did the elephants before breakfast and goodbyes to our new friends. We were the only couple left at the resort!
Aftre breakfast we climbed on top of two different elephants the otherside of the river. Blakey was aboard an enormous male and I on his girlfriend with the mahouts once mre in the back seat. It was a pleasant sunny morning, so the mahouts decided t take advantage of the low number of clients and try out a new trail they were considering.
We led the elephants alog barely tredded human tracks, not yet large enough for them, thick and overgrown with greenery- a trul;yintrepid journey into the jungle with the elephents happily clearing bamboo and vines by munching as we rode, whilst the guides hacked the higher branches out of the way with machetes. We went up and down the steep muddy banks of the rivers as the elephants feet slid but they maintained their rock steady balance, us not finding it so easy as we leaned ever closer to their heads for support at the most hairy ascents.
Although covering many of the same experiences as the previous day it was an utter privilege to do so solely for us and to take the trial run of the new trail. After lunch and a laze on our verrandah during quick storm we headed back to the river to bath the big pir. These guys really knew how to boun boun and in no time we were drenched! After lots of splashes we rode back to the jungle where they were pu down for the night.
A final afternoons activites involved a five minute boat ride downstream to the resting spot of Henri Mahout who requested a view of the water for his coffin. Then back to the restaurant, cooking for just the two of us before walking back to the chalet.
After two days of pure bliss one minor upset. As we trekked back along the muddy footpath in the near dark our first encounter with a live snake. I am rarely so pathetic but they make my stomach flip, and this tiny creature, about the same diameter as a pencil, had me frozen to the spot whilst Blakey gallantly strode ahead. Both a little jittery we checked each room twice before enteringupon our return. We later discovered we were right to be cautius- those littel blighters are pretty dangerous!
People had told us how beautiful Luang Prabang was and we instantly agreed. the big colonial style houses along the quiet streets, palm trees and flowers dotted between and temple building adorned with Nagaprotected gates lined our way into the centre of this little town. As we followed the main street shops full of wooden handicrafts, silk scarves and jewellery caught our eye at various points before we reached the warmly lit night market, rows of stalls catering to the inevitable tourists with more interesting bits and bobs. Allowing the most gruesome things to catch his eye Blakey made a purchase before we realised how hungry we were and went to find a resturant.
Passing somewhere boasting a garden we haeded for a comfortable low table with two cushions in the hope of another romantic setting. Unfoprtunately all chances of that were dashed when our food was bought to the table! Having ordered Aloo Palak (the restaurant specialises in Laos, thai and Indian) the bowl of microwaved potatoes covered in green gunge did not live up to the photographed golden potatoe with fresh spinach I had been anticipating! We had such a keen waiter, it was his fist day on the job, and did not have the heart to send it back, but I didn't have the stomach to eat it either!
After an early night we took a lazy morning getting ready as the monsson rains hit our window outside. It was lovely lying righ under the pane as the torrents slid down the glass, just taking our time. When we did decide to emerge we bought an umbrela before exploring all the town had to offer. W climbed the magolia lined stairs to the top of Phu Si, a hil in the middle of town to see both Buddha's footprint (though if he was that big he was not human, and it is a little vague!)as well as enjoying the views of the town and the rivers. We walked around the Palace Museum where the royal famly ha lived until they were booted out by the revolution in the 70s and saw some amazing cars that Patrick would have loved (but couldn't take photos- sorry!) As we walked around the roms we were both touched by the modesty of it. there were three reception rooms, a throne room and three bedrooms. The reception rooms were beautiful, on with a mural all around that was supposed to be viewed at the corresponding time of day, so as the sun travelled from East to West the light would hit each section which depicted traditional everyday life. It was a beautiful concept. The throne room was the most spectacular, with glass mosaics depicting Laos myths making the walls sparkle, but the bedrooms were so humble (by royal standards) It was like Laos as a whole, enough for comfort, well made and solid but not pretentious and unnecessary.
After a more successful meal than the previous evening we headed for he NAtinal Ballet where sections of the Ramayana were being performed. HAving recently taught the story as part of our Indian Arts course at school I was excited to see a traditional performance. It was elaborately choreographed with sall intricate gestures to create meaning, though by Western standards the pace was a little slow. Still, the story, masks and costumes were spectacle enough and whilst not living up to our Chinese theatre experiences we were pleased to be a part of the udiene.
Next day we had an early start, organising our belongings for a short trip out of town. We were going tobe Mahouts! Mahout is he name given to elephant drivers (after Henri Mahout, the guy who rediscovered Angkor Wat and rode elephants to explore Laos) We wer heading to the camp just outsidethe city where elephants that had previusly been used for logging have maintained employment by proiding rides fo tourists. It is easy work for the elephants and creates a symbiotic relationship between the elephants and the locals who run the organisation.
After arriving with just two other couple we were given denim suits that look like pyjamas and asked to change. As we were staying at the camp with one of the other couples we were shown to our riverside lodge which was AMAZING! A wooden cabin on stilts, the patio doors to the verrandah look straight out across the water with the upper section open to the sloped roof, allowing the air to circulate the large room. Inside are two double beds and four tree trunks supporting the building. At the back is a bathroom, againopen air beneath the roof. It is absolutely beautiful- fit for a honeymoon!
Aftre changing we were taken to a platform where three elephants fitted with riding chairs were waiting for us. Blakey and I jumped on the back of Kha Phan who was being driven by a very smiley man sat around her neck. For the next two hours the elephants trekked around the muddy paths and streams of the surrounding jungle, ours stopping every few feet to rip half a tree out of the ground and stiate her mammoth apetite! We felt so lucky as we swayed from side to side to the slow, ryhthmic gait of the creature- we were obviously getting a far longer outing than advertised as the low season had bought just the six of us to the park.
Halfway around the course our driver turned grinning to Blakey and motioned taht he shuld take the neck. In a very brave move Blakey agreed and a minute later, aftre abalancing acting on the shoulder blades, Blakey was sat with his legs hanging either side of the elephant, tucked behind each ear, resting his hands on the creature's huge head.
After 10 minutes of seeing that Blakey was quite competant some of the others followed and a had a try, and after 45 minutes Blakey and I swapped positions. It was strange to sit so close to the elephant, aware of it's huge size. At first I was worried about holding on to its head in this way, but aftre moments of being in position it was clear that our comparatively meagre size did not bother it at all. its head was covered in wiry black hairs, and with each step its shoulder baldes pushed against my thighs- comfortable for the first ride but a little tender by the second!
We we returned to the camp we were all buzzing, it had been an incredible experience and it had happened so early n the day. Enough time had passd for us to get lunch, and oevr our food we were taugt the MAhout calls, sort of a Hghway Code!
After lunch it was straight back to riding, though this time it was an elephant each to be driven by the learners whilst the MAhouts lazed in the seats on their backs. Unfortunately my Mahout didn't make it in time so I shared with Blakey, though this meant we both got to ride with our miley man again. As we led the elephants with calls of "Bai BAi Bai" we realised we were actually quite good at this! The elephants still eat when tey want (despite calls of "ya ya!" but we did ok!
After a second trek out we were already startingto feel like it had been a full day. Once we got back to the camp the MAhouts took the seats off and drapped large chains over the elephants necks. Another MAhout had turned up npw so I was the first to climb aboard the new elephant, though this time by "map Long', with the elephant laying down so I could climb on its knee and swing my legs over (though not as gracefully as that might sound!)
We headed back into the woods and down a small stream which emerged into a much larger river. We were goign to bathe the elphants, so whilst w clung to their necks the mahouts asked them to lie down, submerging our thighs as well. As they splashed water onto the elephants' heads we scrubbed the dirt and leaves out of teir bristly hair and stroked the topof their heads before the mahouts called "boun boun", at which point the elephants took their cue to splash as much as possible, either by smashing their heads up and down or siphoning water and sprayin git back at us. In no time at all we were utterly drenched- it was amazing!
After messig around in the river we were all starting to get quite tired, ut first we rode the elephants to the jungle where we said goodbye to the mahouts who took them to a place with planty of food for the night. We learned that they only sleep for 30 minutes and spend the rest of the night eating. Having seen how much they eat during the day it is obvious they could clear huge amount of land, which is why this reserve is so nice. Here, locals grow food especially for the elephants as they provide an income, where as wild elephents have ruined crops in other parts of Laos, angering farmers.
The final part of the day saw one of the couples leave before the rest of us tubed down the river, relaxing in large inflatable tyres as the currents took us throughthe lush scenery. Just at the end a torrential downpour hit and suddenly we were drenched and cold. We rushed back to our cabins an jumped under the most satisfying hot shower in a while. After a pleasant dinner with a lovely American couple here on their honeymoon we headed for another ridiculously early night.
The early night was followed by an early morning, meeting our guide at 6.30am to retrieve the elephants from the jungle. We rode them straight to the river for a bath, which did as much to awake and refresh us as it did the elephants before breakfast and goodbyes to our new friends. We were the only couple left at the resort!
Aftre breakfast we climbed on top of two different elephants the otherside of the river. Blakey was aboard an enormous male and I on his girlfriend with the mahouts once mre in the back seat. It was a pleasant sunny morning, so the mahouts decided t take advantage of the low number of clients and try out a new trail they were considering.
We led the elephants alog barely tredded human tracks, not yet large enough for them, thick and overgrown with greenery- a trul;yintrepid journey into the jungle with the elephents happily clearing bamboo and vines by munching as we rode, whilst the guides hacked the higher branches out of the way with machetes. We went up and down the steep muddy banks of the rivers as the elephants feet slid but they maintained their rock steady balance, us not finding it so easy as we leaned ever closer to their heads for support at the most hairy ascents.
Although covering many of the same experiences as the previous day it was an utter privilege to do so solely for us and to take the trial run of the new trail. After lunch and a laze on our verrandah during quick storm we headed back to the river to bath the big pir. These guys really knew how to boun boun and in no time we were drenched! After lots of splashes we rode back to the jungle where they were pu down for the night.
A final afternoons activites involved a five minute boat ride downstream to the resting spot of Henri Mahout who requested a view of the water for his coffin. Then back to the restaurant, cooking for just the two of us before walking back to the chalet.
After two days of pure bliss one minor upset. As we trekked back along the muddy footpath in the near dark our first encounter with a live snake. I am rarely so pathetic but they make my stomach flip, and this tiny creature, about the same diameter as a pencil, had me frozen to the spot whilst Blakey gallantly strode ahead. Both a little jittery we checked each room twice before enteringupon our return. We later discovered we were right to be cautius- those littel blighters are pretty dangerous!
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