Gorged by Tigers

6th September 2009-Qiaotou 9pm

Three weeks had passed since we arrived in Shangri-La and had been spent well relaxing, attempting to get over our colds. It was now time for a challenge! This would come in the shape of a two day trek of theTiger Leaping Gorge which is 16km long and stands almost 4000m over the Yangste, the longest river in China.
We arrived at midday for after one of our worst bus journeys ever- not because of the dangerous road or driver, for once we were on a paved road- it was having every man and child on the bus smoking and spitting first thing in the morning. The seats that were originally white had turned a shade nicotine and grime. Our just showered clean feeling didn't last long- it's one of the few things in China that we certainly won't miss!!

After leaving our bags at Jane's Tibetan guesthouse (the place where we'll stay tomorrow night) and aftre having the worst poached egg on toast ever with a really hard boiled egg we set off. Neither of us knew what to expect on the trek- the guidebook had said it wasn't to be taken lightly and to expect a serious workout; people had died from the crumbly path and steep edges. The time it estimated varied from person to person but it was meant to be about 4.5 hours the first day and 3 the second.

You would have thought an 8 hour walk would be a breeze for us considering what we had achieved so far but today, desperately trying to feel spritely and cheerful we were still pretty rough, and there was no covering it up. I had an never ending streaming cold and Laura was an utter state complaining of feeling sick and more worryingly seeing star shapes infront of her eyes. Within the first half hours walk we had stopped more times than I could count on both hands. Now that we'd come to a plce of lower altitude the sun was really beating down on our weary bodies. I was dealing with it all quite well, focusing on the beauty of the surrounding areas, but Laura was struggling and after a few more stops I wa seriously considering suggesting we turn back.Afetr seeking the first guest house within an hours walk we decided to push on but at a snail's pace. It really didn't matter taht we had to stop every five minutes as this place was getting staggeringly piterseque. We'd moved from walking on roads to dusty paths and onto tiny rocky tracks up and around the steep edges overlooking the near vertical drop to the Yangste River below.

About three hours passed since starting and we arrived at the Naxi Faily Guesthouse for a serious top up of drink and sat in a courtyard amongst beautiful flower and friendly staff. It would ave been a superb place to stay if needed but Laura was feeling ready for more. We headed for the toughest part of the limb next- the 28 bends! It was literally just that and ws quite a work out walking on sharp loose rocks and ascending quickly and steadily for the next three hours. Every fourth turn of a bend would motivate another sit down but again, the views full of thick green hills and plants bursting from either side of the path made it a stop you neverwanted to move on from. Guides with horses passed frequently, offering an easy ride to the top, but we were not going to be defeated. I refueled with a 1 pound snickers bar (riduculous, I know!) and we darned well made it to the top of that peak!

At the top a lady offered photographic opportunities from a jagged path hanging out over the edge for 10 yuan. Rather than pay twice Laura gave me the camera and instructions to take some good shots. I slowly crept down a narrow walkway and within a few minutes had disappeared from view. The lady at the top, now gone home for the day, left Laura sat alone and starting to get in somewhat of a panic having watched me descend from view on this precarious path. Panic turned into a full blown hissy fit as I sat comfortably under a ledge a safe distance from the ledge but still out of sight, too much for Laura who demanded I return。 I am sure I would have experienced a similar moment if Laura had disappeared whilst I watched， but at the time I found her mis-placed worry quite amusing！

Eight hours later （double the time the guides had suggested！） we arrived at the gorgeous setting of the Tea Horse Guethouse right in time before the sky went black with an impressive full moon。 A huge meal and two hot chocolates later we were tucked up in a very cosy room with amazing views for another well deserved rest。

Sleep is the next topic！ Ever since I have left England I‘ve had the same recurring epic dream of us travlling in steep mountains at night surrounded by huge vertical drops。 I somehow incorporate any light from the hostek we are staying in and manage to incorporate my current surroundings into the dream。 Every time I wake up it takes me more than 10 minutes to work out where I am again。On this particular night's rest I was admantly telling Laura about a big "s" I could see in the ceiling even after she woke me to say I was dreaming, but I could still see this gigantic road ahead of me. It took me a good while to understand we were both still in bed and that I am halucinating, probably as a result of the anti-malarials we are taking. Legal drups that make me see thiongs that aren't there- scary!

The next morning we missed getting up for sunrise, but the extra sleep was welcome and there was cloud covere to start anyway. One strong coffee for me and Laura's regular carton of milk and we were off in the already mile on her face! We moved at a good pace and were more confident shuffling around the narrow cracked paths. Alongside the ever present drop we faced challenges worthy of Bear Grylls- actual waterfalls pouring from the cliff face above us across the path and to the valley below. The only way to keep going was to pick our way throughj over the slippery wet rocks encountering great blasts of wet spray. It was easily my favourite part of the day!

We only stopped around three times and reached our destination within four hours. After a good bite to eat we headed back to Jane's for a good rest. It had been a stunning two days and alongside Laura's cursing (more than I've ever heard her curse before!) and vertigo issues, it was a definate stand out journey!