Saturday, 31 October 2009

Into Indonesia

Our very early morning flight led to two grumpy Brits sat in an airport terminal flinching every time the tanoy imparted messages that not only could we not understand but that were also broadcasting at decibel levels intended to reach those still circle in aircraft over head. Upon arrival we had a brief panic when we realised that the authorities are charging for visas, information that the lonely Planet has reliable provided for each previous country. Having no cash on us (at all- Blakey spent the last few pence on a mask at the Malaysia airport) we soon realised it wasn't too drastic but we were the last through customs, no change there then.

A short taxi ride took us to the Losmen Setia Kraman where soon after we checked into our room the "full" sign was displayed. Phew! We had found ourselves a really nice place for the next few nights with comfy sofas, magazines and free tea and coffee, plus a lush breakfast thrown in. An artistic group run the place and the walls are covered in psychedelic murals of elf like faces melting into each other and all seeing eyes. groovy!

After a short stroll and a tasty breakfast it was straight for a lie down on the super comfy mattress. Our previous night's sleep had been cut short not only at an ungodly early hour, but was severely postponed by the next door club trying to extend the party into our room by pumping bass laden R and B through the thin walls. Unsurprisingly we over slept and so did little more than explore the vicinity of our hotel on our first day in Indonesia.


However, our extensive sleep recovery was useful for our 5am start the next morning for sunrise at Borobodur, a huge Buddhist monument a little way out of town. Sunrise had actually started by the time we hi the road, but the light was still low and atmospheric as we circled the pyramid like structure covered in domes and intricate stone carvings., all set in a picturesque location with an impressive mountain to one side and a field of palm trees surrounded in morning mists to the other. the new camera got an excellent trial!

In the afternoon we headed into town through rows of market stalls and the usual hard sell. Everyone here wants to take tourists to a batik gallery so we fended off the repetitive greetings of "Hello, where you from? England! My relative/friend/boss is there. I'll show you something as you're English!/ It's your lucky day/ have you seen the art exhibition?!" We have heard it so many times now that we have stopped being polite and no longer "speak English" It seems to be working but unfortunately may have given the wrong impression when Blakey dismissed two young boys before realising they were innocent students just keen to have their photo taken with him. We hope they understood our apologies!

We headed around the corner for the water palace in the 40 degree heat, walking through the bird market where a tray of fluorescent chicks caught our eye. Indonesia is making a very artistic impression on us, aesthetics are considered everywhere from dying chicks a range of colours to elaborate murals painted on any wall space available. however, sign posting is less prolific and although we knew we were close we could not find the place!

Looking lost we were obvious targets for a tout and soon someone had given us directions but "kindly" offered to accompany us. he followed us the whole way through the complex and we were almost relieved when we ended up at a shop, understanding what was in it for him. having no money on us ensured we were not ripped off and I did not begrudge the pound he asked of us for the information, though I still resent the lack of choicer we were given in hiring his services!


The following day we were to visit another impressive temple, though this time for sunset. Arriving at Prambanan we were instantly more drawn to the decorative Hindu architecture. The huge towers were surrounded by piles of stone as an earthquake in 2006 had caused a lot of damage to the area. restoration work is still very active as large puzzles are being assembled around huge site and scaffolding surrounds some of the structures.

As the sun started to dip we headed for a meal with the Belgian couple that had come from our hotel with us before heading back to watch an incredibly impressive version of the Ramayana Ballet performed on an open air stage directly in front of the flood lit Prambanan. the costumes and lighting were rich and exuberant and the staging truly epic, particularly when large bales of hay were lit sending flames metres into the air. thoroughly impressed we returned to sort through hundreds of pictures and prepare for yet another move the next day.

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