Intrepid Mountain Explorers

I am so tired I can barely sit up to write this now!! For the first time in 3 nights I am in a lovely dry bed in a clean room and we have earned ourselves a jolly good sleep!! On the morning on the 24th we set out to Emei Shan, a sacred Buddhist mountain which as well as boasting a range of historical monastries and temples was reported to hold beautiful scenery and a gang of confident wild monkeys- it sounded good from the start!

We started later than usual- I was still feeling queasy and Blakey was looking after me well. We bought a ticket to Wuxiangang to start the trek from one of the more scenic monastries and although we checked and double checked got dropped off slightly higher up the mountain at the Wannian Monastry.

We decided to enjoy the scenery and took a cable car up the first steep section. From here we could really appreciate what the next few days would have in store. We saw deep, craggy granite cliffs covered in lush tropical plant life. When we reached the Wannian Monastery we were not disappointed. We walked around the peaceful pavillion and both stroked Puxian's elephant's hind legs which should make us fabulously lucky- hurrah!

From here we started the ascent. As the mountain has been visited by pilgrams since the advent of Buddhism in China there is a paved path with slate steps leading from each spot to the Golden Summit. With the number of children, women in heels and people looking as ancient as the mountain itself we knew the stairs would not be too challenging. Or so we thought!!

In the 36 'C heat and with a fair amount of bugs around each step caused us to lose our breath. Blakey was sweating profusely; I was also but try to imagine in a more ladylike manner!

We stopped to regain our breath and drain the liquid from our water bottles rather often but kept going at a slow and steady pace until dusk. At this point, 2070m high and a supposed 20 km on (though I swear that's as the crow flies and not taking the ups and downs into account- as do many other travellers!!) we stopped at the Elephant Bathing pool.

This monastry was sat right in the middle of some of the most beautiful scenery we had passed so far. On either side we could see the sheer drop, though our views of the ground below were obscured by the misty clouds settled amongst the gnarled and twisted trees. We approached the monks and asked for accommodation for the night. At this point a small Chinese lady with a large flask of boiling water led us through the corridors to a very modest room with two hard beds, a desk and, surprisingly, a TV. She left us with the water and went on her way.

It is at times like these that I realise how lucky Blakey and I were to have found each other. For many people the dirty room, slightly damp blankets and definate mouldy smell could be something of a turn off, but for us this was one of the most atmospheric and romantic settings we had ever been. After settling in I took what was simultaneously the grottiest and yet most satisifying shower of my life (in which I found, tucked into the corner and at eye level, a hair clip- granny really is looking after me!) Refreshed we took a stroll around the monastery.

As dusk began to turn to night the peacefulness of the mountain was stunning. The moon shone brilliantly through the silhouettes of branches and the world seemed a great place to be!! We went to find some food and the monks opened up the kitchen for just us, cooking up some amazingly tasty noodles- though 8 hours of trekking with no lunch could make most things taste incredible!

After a good night's sleep we were up early to continue our journey to the summit. Walking sticks in hand we set off, this time less overpowered by the heat which was not nearly as intense up here.

One of the most rewarding things about the trek was the sense of commrardarie with others making the same journey. Each person we passed greated us with a cheery 'Ne Hao' or more often 'Hello! How are you?' in an attempt to practise their basic English skills. The best bit was when a lady pointed at my bulbous nose and gave me a thumbs up- apparently it is quite attractive in China! Then she pointed at Blakey's and mimed how pointy it is, giving him a thumbs down- oh dear!

Near the top I was enjoying my people watching and was fascinated by three Tibetan women in traditionl dress. I could feel myself staring as their culture intrigues me and so tried not to look too much. At that moment one of them grabbed me and asked (through mime and facial expression of course) if she could have her picture taken with me! All of the women lined up to have one taken, and out of their traditional bags pulled modern looking camera phones to record the moment. It is so strange to think that we are as intersting to them as they are to us. Both Blakey and I were asked to pose for a number of pictures with our arms around strangers.

After what felt like an eternity of climbing steep and perpetual cases of little rickety stairs we found ourselves nearing the 'Golden Summit'. We turned a corner and over a row of trees could see a collosal golden statue. We turned up onto the Pavillion and were absolutely awestruck by the magnificence of the figure.

As we spent the next 15 minutes with our fingers on the triggers of our cameras we had our own little taste of sunrise. For a brief 15 minutes the sun burst through the clouds and Jing Din temple and the statue both lit up brightly in the reflected rays. This was what most pilgrams get up at dawn or stay overnight for, and we were treated to this spectacle at the very reasonable time of 4pm!

Feeling thoroughly satisfied we decided to start our descent a little earlier than anticipated. Again, to get an alternative view, we took a cable car from the top to Leipongdin, a 3.5km distance that took us almost 2 hours to climb. Rather than the little cabin we were expecting this was a huge glass cabinet that went down an almost vertical drop- so intense it was almost like being at the top of a rollercoaster before it started. Once it did however, although it moved fast and was very high up, it was not quite the white knuckle ride it looked like it might have been.

From here we started our descent on foot. We were to go back an alternative route which we were told was more beautiful, but would first have to retrace our footsteps as far as the monastery where we had slept the previous night. Going down the mountain we suddenly gathered considerably more speed and wished smug and self-satisfied 'good-lucks' to the puffed-out, weary looking pedestrians going the other direction.

After passing through the monastery our path was suddenly stopped by a gang of monkeys. Blakey was excited in that special way that only Blakey can be and whipped out his camcorder. Just at that moment the monkeys must have sensed his sense of humour and turned the movie into some monkey porn. I bet you can't wait to see that bt of video!

The other path down really was beautiful. As the afternoon got later the clouds started to clear and we were walking along the edge of a huge valley, The mist kept rising atmospherically between us and the other side of the canyon and we continued at our new, rigourous pace. Eventually, as night began to fall, we found the Yuxian monastry.

This again was nestled into a stunning location. It was much smaller than the previous and was run by one very friendly monk who looked a lot like Buddha himself. Whilst taking pictures of the amazing view he showed us pictures he had taken on his phone and took us through his modest private living quarters to his personal terrace to show the view from that side. It was absolutley magical.

We settled down in our small, damp room for an early night's sleep, stinky but satisfied and I was soon drifting off. Blakey was less successful as a young girl in the room opposite us did nothing to lower her voice and her parents did nothing to encourage her. Yuk.

Though soon even she was drowned out and we were both wide awake listening to the most terrific storm I have ever heard. Rain was lashing down on the corrugated iron roof above us with an almighty roar, lightening flashing 3 or 4 times a minute whilst simultaneously the thunder cracked directly above us and echoed around the cliffs of the valley. It was quite terrifying!

By the morning the rain had blown itself out- or so we thought. After 30 minutes of careful trekking on the near-trecherous sodden slate steps th ethunder and rain started again. We continued to walk, aware there was nothing to do but get wet and focus on the warm shower and dry bed that was waiting at the hostel on sea level below. We stopped briefly for a coffee in a stall that smelt deliciously of wood smoke and watched a waterfall next to us quadruple in size before we had finished the cup. We continued our descent throught the forests of azaleas and into the subtropical plants as the heat began to pick up again. Thankfully this time the bugs were replaced with frogs and the occasional mammoth worm.

Nearing the end of our journey we had to pass through a corridor full of monkeys. Blakey received a hug from one on the look out for food before we reached a very beautiful though more touristed section of the mountain. A comparitively short walk around a crystal clear lake bought us back to a bus stop and a short journey filled with painfully loud kung fu and gambling movie soundtrack saw us back to our hotel. This was quickly followed by an extremely long, hot shower and a very large meal, plus an entire load of washing which is currently drying on the roof of the hotel.

Tomorrow is a day of rest- we have booked an extra night for a well deserved lie in and some internet action. Now I really must pay that Blake some attention!!