All creatures cute and cuddly

This will have to be an extra long blog as our week of camping and travelling has been so full we have not had time to stop and sit! After picking up our swanky hire car in Adelaide we headed for the great outdoors!

We had barely left Adelaide when we hit McLaren Vale, a vine growing region of picturesque hills and countless wineries. It seemed utterly peaceful so we headed for the incredibly helpful information centre, the first of many where staff seemed to genuinely take pleasure in making our holiday fantastic, and soon headed for a tranquil campsite bu Maslims Beach- a sandy stretch surrounded by lilac and green coastal shrubbery. After pitching our tent in a field of inquisitive ducks we headed for a stroll along the shore. It was really pleasant to be on a temperate, as opposed to a tropical, beach, the breeze cool and jumpers on as we made footprints in the sand. Although scattered with seaweed and a chill in the air the place was endearing due to the more rugged feel it conjured and we both compared it to Cornwall. Once again Australia has satisfied our love of all things homely.

Heading back to camp we made use of the covered on site kitchen- a cheats barbecue offering access to a regular stove and a kettle, and even some TV, whilst we prepared our food! Still needing to purchase a camp stove the creature comforts were appreciated and we rolled into our sleeping bags for the night content and full of a sense of adventure.

Waking the next morning we were keen to travel further inland (though a short distance) for access to the 'wine trail'. Both feeling like utter novices we put on our smartest clothes and planned stories of our upcoming wedding in order to avoid disapproving "you-don't-know-what-you're-doing-here" looks. Driving through the countryside on a Sunday, Blake at the wheel whilst I apply my make up, we could have been driving to West Meon for a roast dinner. Coming to our first cellar door we pulled up to a magnificent view across the hills and headed in.

Almost immediately we were ready to turn back. there were two waiters, shelves of bottles and a couple looking at a list and ordering in whatever they knew the right way was. Muttering under our breath plans to make an escape a waiter approached and asked if he could help. Bugger- we'd have to do it now! I decided honesty was the best policy and explained we had never done this before so were true beginners, to which he seemed to take delight in showing us what it's all about and how to approach the task at hand. Placing the list in front of us he explained the spectrum of red and white and described in layman's terms what people are talking about when they describe wine in all those flamboyant ways. He was very friendly and genuinely interested in our opinions, of which we formed a few and have decided a similar experience may be called for prior to catering for our upcoming nuptials!

After tasting each wine and being told spitting is no longer encourages, simply sips and pouring the rest away, we realised we wouldn't be doing this too many times today. The vineyards were all driving distances apart but the scenery along the way spectacular, so we just took that in as we headed past many up to a small cluster of cellar doors backing on to a wildlife reserve. Heading into the next place the atmosphere was a little more pretentious and though friendly, the waiters seemed a little less genuine in their interest in our amateur opinions. When we were given a sip from a $60 bottle and told to "look at the art as you savour the flavour, it's layer upon layer for the palate" the sophistication became too much for us so we decided to take inappropriate pictures around the corner of silly faces and after a few moments of "savouring the flavour", a little beyond the comprehension of novice wine tasters, necked the lot and headed for a nice walk instead!

Heading down into the park we were met by large hills and valleys covered in dry grass, giving the impression of golden fur. Walking through we came to a dense patch of bushes and suddenly, bounding through, we spotted our first kangaroo in the wild! As has happened many times since, Blakey's face lit up with pure excitement as we grabbed our cameras and stared capturing the iconic Aussie wildlife. He nearly wet himself when an entire herd bounded across the hills a few minutes later!

Returning to a closer campsite with a newly acquired stove we rustled up some tasty camp tucker and I was asleep as it turned dark. Days like this seem to make anyone sleep extra soundly, but Blakey's new found love of my Nintendo DS kept him working out logic puzzles until late. Not a problem until this led to a midnight toilet session in which zips were extra loud and movement in the tent unnecessarily large as he clambered out of his sleeping bag and into his trousers. Being woken from sch a deep sleep I opened my eyes with an endearing "I hate you!"

However, I made it up the next morning when the sun woke me super early. Sneaking out of the tent (without a commotion I might add) I left a soundly sleeping Blake. After a shower and organising breakfast I awoke my beloved with the gently wafting smells of bacon and we enjoyed a hearty cooked breakfast before starting our long drive around the coast.

First up we headed an hour and a half through winding country lanes to Port Elliot where the pretty golden beach was being hit by atmospheric white waves. We ordered coffees at the beach side cafe and soaked up the golden sunlight. Like McLaren Vale, the whole of this area, known as the Fleurieu Peninsular, has an incredibly tranquil vibe. It was wonderfully romantic for a young couple like us but we did notice the number of 'boules clubs' at these locations and grey hair of many of the other patrons! I am sure that our enjoyment of this area will fuel taunts from my friends about just how old I am! Coffees slurped we headed to the warm sand for some silly pictures, though the cool breeze stopped us from staying too long. And just as well- we had a long way to drive today.

We broke up our trip with a couple more stops, one for the only public Internet in the area and another for tasty falafel wraps before the longing winding road through the Coorong National Park. Large flat scrub lands dotted with numerous salt lakes including one an unusual shade of pink, line our journey to Salt Creek where we headed for the bush and its true 'outback' campsites. Driving down long unsealed roads we found an isolated site. After pitching the tent we noticed a hole previously used as a toilet and the most humongous ants we've ever seen. Between 3 and 4cm long, the inquisitive insects clambered over our tent before we decided to relocate away from the sewage and insects. Lifting our tent through the bush we were soon satisfied with our new location (though no less sheltered from ants!) and went for a short stroll around the salt lakes.

After last night's disturbance and the more exposed setting of the bush Blakey bought an empty bottle to bed. A game of sudoku later and I was ready for a peaceful rest. once again my future spouse denied me this privilege- this time with almighty snores! As a result, all pictures of me from this point in include extended bags and a rather dull complexion. I am still waiting for a really good rest!

Heading from the camp the next morning over bumpy unsealed road, my incredibly muggy head and our lack of fresh milk demanded a stop for a pot of tea/. Not enough caffeine to compensate for the constant thunder emanating from my dribbling bed mate the previous night, I was revived a little and we headed back to the car. one of the nicest things about this journey has been access to a stereo, allowing us to listen to our music without the need for earphones- a real treat! This kept us entertained until our next stop at the much hyped Mount Gambier. Stopping in town to get some information we were soon to waste an hour and $30- our front number plate had dropped off somewhere along the way. Bugger bugger bugger! We were once again met with cheery customer services and a quick stop at the police station before heading to the 'Blue Lake'.

Water is often described as blue, I have described the seas we have been in as blue, but this was really, REALLY blue! In an ancient volcanic crater it was quite dazzling, especially when compared with the still picturesque but more normal lake at the base of the crater on the other side. That lake was surrounded by a park with manicured lawns and huge trees where we enjoyed a tasty picnic. Stretching our legs with a stroll after lunch Blake once again showed that childlike excitement as we spotted terrapins and birds in the water.

But that was just the start of it today! Another long track of scenic road and by late afternoon we were in Nelson. A very small town, we were dubious when a slightly strange lady told us there was nowhere really to camp so we could stay in her garden. Thinking of how many horror movies start with a similar pretence before revealing the isolated outback life has led the antihero to violent psychopathic behaviours, we were grateful when her friend turned up and pointed us in the direction of Glenelg National Park.

Another unsealed chalky road took us deep into the forests, bringing to mind the New Forest for us both, until suddenly an emu bolted across the path and along the road with us for quite a distance. They are so weir looking it is strange to think of them as real, wild creatures and not just zoo exhibits!

Reaching our campsite, another free option in the National Park, we realised that our spots had been getting progressively better each night. This time we were right next to the Glenelg River with a grassy paddock in front of us. here there were toilets, which were just large pits sheltered by corrugated iron, but it still gave a feeling of more protection than squatting over out sized ants! Not only that, but as we drove through it was clear there were hundreds of kangaroos here! Exploring the paddock near the toilets a number were grazing, including a mother with a joey safely stowed in her pouch. Blakey was ecstatic as he bounded around with as much energy as the kangaroos, camcorder in hand. As we settled down to rest for the night we could hear the thud of them as they approached so close to our tent, at one pint we were worried they might mow it down!

When we awoke the next morning things were quieter and we could only see traces that they had been there, including droppings on the roof of our car (what had they been up to?!) It was time for another early break in driving for a reviving pot of tea before heading to Port Fairy. Many books and people had spoken of this pretty place though it all seemed fairly suburban as we passed large seaside house and a very small main street to head for the wharf. Here we could smell before we could see a quality fish and chip shop, and the declarat6ion that it had been voted "foodies best Fish and Chips four years running" invited us to form our own opinions. Purchasing a delicious smelling portion alongside a handsome looking piece of butterfish for Blakey, we restrainedly resisted a taste until finding a spot by the sea. It was at this point that we recognised the fuss about Port Fairy. We quickly found ourselves walking across the boarded paths of the Griffiths Reserve, a collection of small sand bars and sheltered shallow waters that are home to Shearwater birds. Walking through the coastline shrubbery and out to the black volcanic rocks lining the shore we had a magnificent view of the very active ocean, large waves dramatically crashing, sending spray into the air as they hit the shore. To top it all off, the first taste of our proper seaside meal confirmed the accolades and has become my best chips ever- quite an achievement as I have eaten Moby's at St Ives!

Finishing the circular walk with views of the lighthouse we returned to our journey and on to the much hyped Port Campbell and its 12 Apostles National Park. After a long journey winding around the coastline with constant views of cliffs and waves we spotted a 'scenic lookout' sign and decided to pull over and see. We were greeted with the dramatic scenery of the Bay of Islands, a collection of eroded limestone structures, surrounded by frothy white waves. Continuing along the coast we stopped at the picturesque "Grotto" and aptly named "Arch" before finding another fantastic spot to camp, next to a river and less than 2 minutes walk from the coastline, though with the added luxury of an amenities block!

After pitching the tent we couldn't decide if we should have a very early dinner and see the apostles at sun set, of head out then and return whilst it was still light enough to cook. Thankfully we headed out then, as along the way we stopped at the 'blow hole', a site quite far inland where a tunnel through the limestone cliffs has caused a large reserve which the waves penetrate like a deep frothy lake; 'thunder cave' where the treacherous waves have carved a huge acoustic chamber causing booms to echo like thunder and the completely undersold 'Sherbrooke River' where a small stream met the tumultuous sea. Here we had access to the shore and scrambled across the limestone formations to get close to the most impressive waves either of us have ever seen- trying to take pictures as each hit the rocks we were standing on and sent spray metres up into the air really got the adrenaline pumping!

The sun was already starting to dip so we quickly headed round to the famous 12 Apostles, though in reality only 9 of them stand today and not all can be seen from the viewing platform. Magnificent as they were, the Australian tourist board was quite candid in the signs explaining they were named the 12 Apostles in the 50s to encourage more visitors! Definitely as splendid as I had imagined, I must admit that he others were just as stunning. We left before the sun set and as the crowds began to gather and headed for a lookout we had missed along the way- Loch Ard Gorge. Here we were completely alone and soon realised that the sun set directly between the rocks here- fer better framed than at the 12 Apostles! Fate had once again bought us to the right place at the right time.

Heading back we cooked in the pitch black with a tiny torch and the gas flame from the heater (although not long in the couple next door took pity and gave us a mossy-repellent candle!). Our latest night yet, and just as well as with the battery gone on my DS there was to be no bedtime sudoku!

Our penultimate day on the road started overcast and soon turned drizzly, but driving through the country roads it was even more like home. When we arrived mid morning at the Otway National Park we were excited to put our coats on and I even pulled out my pink hat to stop the wind in my ears. This is a area of ancient forest and we had come to do the Tree Top Walk in which a long section of boardwalks lead through the canopy. Excitedly walking through the woods we both wished we could have bought Patty, even more so when we reached a section of forest dotted with dinosaur models. Instead we made a magnificent film for his viewing pleasure and continued on!

When we reached he section that took us through the trees at first all seemed fine, but soon it had a strange effect on me. The structure is like a metal sus[pension bridge, held up with tension cables and large poles. This meant that the whole structure had a slight sway, similar to standing on a pontoon. That coupled with the swaying trees bought on a burst of vertigo leading me to hold the railings the whole way around! However, I was very brave climbing to the top of the tallest swaying tower and forcing myself to look over the edge ( and then descending just as large gusts of wind shock everything most dramatically causing my tummy to flip almost 17 times!). I even headed out on to the extended swaying arm that perilously over the plant life below. I was quite happy to return to solid ground at the end!

Further around the coast as the Great Ocean Road hugs the cliff face making for the sort of scenery you only see in car adverts and here, we reached Apollo Bay. This is a resort town and so we had read a lot about it, but the seafront shops and manicured parks were all a little too clean cut for us. After a coffee and a quick but expensive Internet check (tourist prices-yuk!) we decided to creep further up the coast to Kennett River where we had a chance of spotting the last of the iconic Aussie fauna- koalas!

Finding a quiet campsite right opposite a far more attractively rugged section of the coast we asked the proprietor for advice on where to spot the cuddly little creatures. Pulling out a map we were ready to take directions, but realised it was one of the small campsite. He highlighted pitches D16-D20 and said they usually like the trees around there, though there was on in the tree in his garden that morning! The moment we parked the car we spotted on n the tree right opposite us, then another in the next tree, and after that... there were loads!Blakey'ssmile was from ear to ear as he ran around,zoomin gin and out and waiting for them to move, asking if I'd seen each time they did! Not only that but there were dozens of brightly coloured parrots and at least 3 cockatoos,all willing to land on our car or fly at our heads in a Tikki like fashion! It was like camping in a zoo with no cages and having a very excitable boy to remind me how wonderful it all was!

And so we had just one day left on the road. Sad to leave the campsite (Blakey could have moved there permanently! we followed the road to Torquay surf beach. crawling with teens in wetsuits and possibly far more exciting if we had the money to take advantage of the huge surf wear outlets (it is the home of Quiksilver and Ripcurl) Finding it again a little too designed and manicured for tourists we passed through to Point Lonsdale for a more authentic feeling beach and a stroll along the jetty,with views of seaweed gardens through the clear calm waters.Just a couple of hours from Melbourne we set up our last camp though were not to last the night in the tent.Rain the previous evening had soaked through- it had kept us dry but a couple of drips seeping through in the morning had lowered my confidence in the lightweight piece of canvas that had been our home for the week. When an almighty thunderstorm blew in and crashed directly above us,lighting so bright it felt as though it was hit the ground in the tent with us, we decided to make a dash for the car. Soaked in the few paces it took to leave the tent and scramble in,we pushed back the passenger seats and rested surprisingly well- a dramatic conclusion to our fantastic Aussie adventure.

Going Going Ghan!

After an early 5.30am wake up we made our way eyes half shut to the shuttle bus station. Eventually at 8.30am it arrived, one and a half hours later then we were told but were met by a very cheerful, lanky Aussie driver with his socks pulled right up to his knees who put a smile back on our faces. With an amusing running commentary on the passing sites he drove us to the train station were we would get on board The Ghan and spend the next three days travelling from Darwin to Adelaide.

Getting on we had expected to share a room with at least two other people but were pleasantly surprised we would get a cabin all to ourselves! It was a really cosy and romantic one as well with two comfy chairs facing each other, fold down bunk beds, sink, table and a great big window to watch our journey drift by. It all sounds rather simple maybe, but the thought of sitting down for three days of relaxation and not feeling the single bit guilty about it was just brilliant.

For the next few hours we just sat back and enjoyed the rugged spectacular outback shoot by whilst writing our Christmas cards, playing some DS and re-learning some Spanish in preparation of South America and working out the wonders of Sudoku which I'm now a master at!

The Ghan then made it's first stop at Katherine where we would have four hours to look around. The host of different options to do now including helicopter rides and boat cruises were just a little pricey so we took a bus into town instead. After realising the best shop there was Woolworth's we decided to take a ride over to a local homestead where there apparently did amazing cream teas. We soon arrived at a beautiful woodland setting with a massive old barn, a croc infested river and a few fat geese sneaking around hoping for a tasty bite of scone, Laura's one in particular! We were surrounded by a whole bus load of OAP's but we were more then happy to be here.

The evening then shot by with us nattering late into the night, reflecting on our travels so far and talking about all the things we are both looking forward to when we get home next year. Bunk bed action then followed.

The next morning we sprung from our beds and got some breakfast to then sit back down and relax again. But soon after we made our second stop at Alice Springs where we would only get a few hours to walk about. It was a bit of a shame as there is some truly jaw dropping places to see here but we will just have to come back someday. We hit town which like Katherine was a little dull so we made our own fun by riding mud camel statues and I tied Laura to the railway tracks, more on that when you see the video footage...

We got back to the train and spent the evening planning tons for the wedding whilst drinking tea and watching impressive displays of lightning dagger through the sky outside. I could have stayed glued to the window all night but we eventually got some more great rest in.

Awaking on our third day we quickly covered our naked bodily parts as the outback outside had now reached civilisation again! In just a few hours time we would reach Adelaide already and to be honest neither of us were ready to get off just yet. The whole trip had been so calm and a great time out to just sit and watch the train do all the hard work showing us some of Australia's stunning scenery, a brilliant three days!

We caught a bus to Adelaide's town centre and went to find our pre-booked hostel. When we arrived the man behind the desk was more then a tad grumpy with us and complained we had failed to show up for the previous night. We were meant to have stayed then but we had sent an email back home to our trip organiser to change the dates because we would be staying on The Ghan that night instead. After checking back through our old emails our guy had replied back to us but we hadn't got back to him so it was our fault in the end but after explaining all of this the receptionist was still unnecessarily rude.

Things didn't get much better either as when we entered our bland double room not only did it smell of b.o and cheese, it also had eight beds in?! After going back downstairs to discuss with receptionist we got the room to ourselves thankfully, now we would just have to open the window and crank the fan for the rest of the day. None of this really mattered, but after our amazing accommodation for prices less then a quarter of this in Asia with en-suite, swimming pool and breakfast included we couldn't help feel a bit 'cheesed' off.

Walking around town seemed like being back in Southampton again with all the same shops and brand names on every corner, not quite what we had travelled all this way to see but we could have happily spent some money. I'm still not sure if seeing all the Christmas displays out made us both excited or sad about being far from home for it but what was a welcome was the weather in which we were finally starting to feel cold again. Out came our jumpers that had been in our bag unused for all this time! The slightly weird thing was that the actual temperature outside was 24 degrees, which back at home would easily mean putting on a bikini! Well not for me obviously but you understand. Four months in and we had finally adjusted to the constant intense heat!

We got back to our hostel to end the day but it seemed the entire floor wanted to party all night long so a good sleep was not going to be on the cards. Throughout the night we heard full on macho arguments next door to us and when Laura went to the loo around 4am it was full of girls crying because they were ridiculously drunk-being in hostels is sometimes like being on a school trip. It just went on and on into the morning. Adelaide was not the most inspiring town but we were only here for one night before picking up a car and heading for the Great Ocean Road- now that should be more like it!

No Worries Mate!

Still in our semi jet-lagged states we got up super early for our outback adventure. We waited outside our hotel and knew when our guide had arrived- down the street walked a Mel-Gisbon-esque true Aussie bloke donned in denim, sunnies and a classic bush-walker hat. With him were a mob of similarly bleary eyed travellers, all of us struggling to keep our heads up in the dazzling morning sun whilst he spoke loudly and animatedly with incredible amounts of enthusiasm. Piling our stuff on to the trailer we hopped into the turbo-sized jeep and attempted to retain our personal space as our knees bumped the people sitting opposite.

And we were off! As we headed from Darwin our long journey went from smooth tarmac to dusty dirt tracks whilst our guide, Greig, helped us all get to know each other. Once sat in the front he did an incredible job of driving whilst rarely looking at the road, his neck permanently craned for excitable introductory chats. There were 9 of us in total prepared to rough it for 3 days in search of a taste of Kakadu National Park. We all introduced ourselves- a couple of Scots, Claire and Denise, staying in Sydney for a year and travelling the country when not working (both fairly quiet after a heavy night had ended mere hours before); Courtney, another chatty and stereotypical Aussie; Marc and Vince, a French couple taking 5 years to travel the world after retiring from work and humorously honest with their intentions to escape the boredom of Darwin whilst waiting for their camper-van to get shipped in from Calcutta; Andreas, a seemingly quiet Italian and Louts, an extremely happy chap from East Germany, grateful for every opportunity that comes his way! The diverse mix of people and obvious personalities made it feel like walking on to the set of Big Brother and we were already forming opinions about who would be the most interesting for the public to follow!

Our first stop was a croc-infested billabong. Greig asked what we were all expecting and Blakey recalled the film Rogue- a croc horror where a tour group get caught out when the engine on their boat stops working and half get mauled by the aquatic killing machines. Nice! So we headed for an identical boat and an identical tour in which our guide, Ted, gave us the run down on the local flora and fauna. The billabong was beautiful, covered in lilies and surrounded by lush tropical plants and so many birds. In no time we spotted our first giant- a freshwater croc, and apparently a huge one. Surprised at its size Ted was visibly excited but assured us that 'Freshies' only eat fish and would only harm a human if provoked. at this point poor Louts stood to take a photograph, as his grasp n English does not stretch to thick Aussie accents and so he ha missed the thorough warning to all stay seated. He got a stern telling off and we were all reminded that this was one of the most croc-rich creeks in the world and a significant number were below the boat right now so keep your hands inside and don't rock the boat! Bloody hell!

As we continued to trundle along we soon came across a menacing saltwater crocodile- much bigger and far more dangerous, these are the guys that eat anything and kill anything to store for later. Bloody bloody hell! We took more photos but i did note a number of people aboard, including Blakey and myself, seemed to shift a little towards the centre of the boat. Just as we were about to head back for the safety of the shore we all noticed the number of times Ted tried and failed to start the engine. Uh oh! He explained that there were weeds around the propeller and asked Blakey to pass him the snorkel at the front, to which Blake's face dropped a little prior to recognising the sarcastic Aussie humour! but when he started poking around with a stick and leaning over the side of the boat a few significant glances were passed around the vessel. Thankfully it started and we made it back safely for me to write this today!

The heat coupled with the humidity were settling upon us making the air thick and heavy. We clambered back into the jeep and headed on another long journey through the outback, surrounded by parched looking swatches of forest, every tree trunk blackened by bush fires. Stopping to collect firewood the sheltered Europeans checked and double checked before disturbing logs and returning to the jeep for yet more driving. Eventually we reached a spot where we where to camp for the night in the heart of this huge National Park as we crept towards the increased heat of midday. Dropping the trailer we prepared a quick lunch and clambered back into the jeep yet again to head for a nearby "waterfall". After a thankfully short journey we found ourselves at a nearby resort with a cool, clean and empty swimming pool. it did not take long for us all to strip off and I swear the water sizzled as we lowered our hot and tired bodies into it.

Feeling refreshed it was time for a further drive, this time to the North Eastern corner of the park to Ubirr. Arriving mid afternoon the sun was less powerful but the drive had unfortunately undone the refreshing affects of the swim. We walked around the beautiful area which was magnificent enough due to the huge sandstone formations but made more significant by the rock art that adorns them. Spanning over 40,000 to 50,000 years the art work is layered on the rocks in the characteristic aboriginal style. We stood and listened to Greig's explanation of the significance of the drawings. Realising it was quite an in depth explanation at the next site a few of us found spots to sit in the shade before encountering the next installment!

The long hot day ended in a long hot climb up boulders to a look out point stationed over a huge plain of grass and trees, water running through and clear views of the sunset. It would have been perfect if it were not for the plethora of flies. Exhausted, we sat and watched the golden light turn the rocks red whilst reluctantly doing the 'Kakadu dance', which involved flapping hands either side of your ears whilst screwing your face up slightly.

On the journey back to camp we all practiced the art of falling asleep in a composed manner, with Denise setting the standard by sitting up right with her eyes gracefully closed behind her shades. I, on the other hand, sprawled across Blakey's lap in a way that he has now become accustomed to after our countless bus journeys. The joys of travelling with a partner!

It was pitch black by the time we reached camp and built our fire. The usual appeal of a campfire was undermined by the sticky, sweaty heat that lay thickly upon us and we all took our seats away from the flames to enjoy a meal of fajitas tenderly prepared by Greig- perfect but for the exclusion of avocado, though I assured him I would have shelled out an extra $3 if the itinerary had listed it in "what's included". Meals scoffed we all took apprehensive walks through the dark wilderness to the bathrooms, creatures moving around us, every stick turning into a snake in the torch light and nearly pooing ourselves when a toad jumped unexpectedly in our path. The wilderness can cause enough apprehension in daylight so even after returning to the comparative safety of our tent it took Blakey a while to drop his guard and fall asleep. I was out like a flash.

The next day we were the last to rise when awoken painfully early to an equally sticky morning. At this time of year there is no respite from the incessant heat. We quickly ate breakfast and struck camp before embarking on another long drive towards the South of the park and the magnificent Jim Jim falls, the second highest waterfall in Australia. We took a short hot walk over increasingly large boulders whilst the sun beat down upon us. In these situations all worry about looking like, as Danni so eloquently describes, "a wanker", are no longer acknowledged. My scarf draped over my head, sarong over my shoulders, I attempted to save myself from the scorching sun as we made the trek.

Stopping halfway the falls were pointed out to us. Across a lagoon surrounded by picturesque plants was a huge sheer cliff. The waterfall cascades from over 200 metres above- during wet season when it is not accessible. As this was the shoulder season (build up to the wet) we were asked to use our imaginations as not so much as a trickle was coming down that cliff! However, the plunge pool was deep and cool enough for us all to refresh after the trek, so ignoring the crocodile warning signs and trusting our guide (despite the added "at your own risk" disclaimer) we splashed ni the waters- not so cool but definitely preferable to the surrounding atmosphere.

By this time the characters in the group were starting to show as Louts, the ever-smiling German, explored the area with a sense of energy and invigoration admirable in a man of his age. He has the same innocence and energy as Rowan Atkinson's character in Rat Race and was just as entertaining for us all. Ever positive, he declared the place "wonderbar" as we enjoyed the scenery.

After lunch we took to the jeep for what turned out to be an epic drive over bumpy dirt tracks and long straight dusty roads to the Southern boundary of the park to pick up some fresh beers for the continental Europeans before heading back up to another waterfall, though this time we were to climb a steep sandstone cliff to reach the pool at the top. Unfortunately two of our group suffered vertigo and so did not make the climb, but though of us that did were rewarded with a beautiful pool being fed by a trickling waterfall to one side and seeping over the cliffs the other- a natural infinity pool so high up we had vistas stretching for miles across the forests and grass plains, with the spectacular backdrop of a deep rusty sunset. Watching from the cool comfort of the pool we escaped both the heat and the flies for what we all considered the best view in Kakadu. By this time Andreas had started to get more outspoken and declared the area Loutsy-Loutsy falls after our positive travelling companion!

Heading back to camp we lit the fire beneath a spectacularly starlit sky. This evening a full barbeque complete with buffalo, croc and kangaroo meat was served. Andreas provided the entertainment with comparisons of Aussie and Italian driving and attempts at an Australian accent with many rings of "No worries mate!" The beers were flowing and the company merry. Unfortunately the heat had got to Blakey and he headed for bed early. the combination of the head ache and continuing tiredness we have both been experiencing led to a few pangs for home- it was reminiscent of our trips to the New Forest but without Danni offering cider to the ponies or Matt taking his role as the Barbeque King.

Another early morning followed, but rather than heading straight for the jeep we were able to walk to the bottom pool of the newly christened Loutsy Loutsy Falls for a cool dip in the once again "croc-danger" signposted pool. Having started ridiculously early we then headed for Gunlom waterfall- a running stream flowing down a rockface into a clear pool. This time it was my turn to feel a little far from home as the clear water highlighted the huge fish in the water, but the depth of the pool and rocky bottom led to areas where it was possible to see what lies beneath. By this time Greig's confidence was leading me to doubt my own and whether I could truly trust this over-enthusiastic guide. Whilst many of the group heade across the black water (included my beloved, much to my over-active imagination's horror!) I sat on a rock and relaxed in the sunshine, the genuine coolness of this flowing pool protecting me from the uncomfortable rays of heat.

Leaving the pool to dress, the plague of flies quickened the time it took to become hot and bothered once more, as did the walk back across the boulders slippery with sand. Thankfully our long drive back to Darwin was preceded by a return to the comfort of the resort swimming pool, allowing a fly-free moment before the three hour jeep session.

Returning to Darwin we were tired and sweaty, grateful for the comfort of air-con, clean sheets and distinct lack of bugs. Longing for a shower and bed we decided to post-pone that pleasure until after one final drink with our travelling companions. Showered and dressed in slightly more glamorous clothes we all met for dinner and beers- much to the Europeans delight! In his usual exciteable manner Blakey soon inspired shots and introduced the ever-delighted Louts and charismatic Marc to the wonders of tequila. It wasn't long before the girls joined in and our promised "one drink, then bed" turned into "one or two or three drinks, then bed" and a stumble back to an extra needed sleep.

Aussie-tastic!

After spending around 1000 pounds in just over a week in Bali what with diamond rings and new cameras, our 'engagement honeymoon' really needed to end today, especially as we were to jet over to Australia where prices would be at least double what we're used to. Indonesia in whole had been truly spectacular and equally as romantic, so leaving it brought a small lump to my throat. Seeing as a month ago we were really looking forward to finishing Asia and getting to Aus for the comfort and ease this was quite strange and made us realise just how much we've adjusted to the lifestyle here and adored every moment of it over the last 3 months. Normality seems quite a boring prospect but with so much planned in Australia there was surely so much to look forward to. We will definitely be returning here one day.

Our last day in Sanur wasn't quite the relaxing day we had planned by the pool, and instead we ended up spending our time packing our bags, spending over four hours on the Internet putting up our Indonesia album and attempting to find the local post office in the boiling heat to send our impressive collection of goodies from Ubud home.

We finally got time to relax at 6pm, just an hour before our taxi was booked but after our full day we both had cracking headaches that not even a comforting swim could fix. Anyhow at 7pm we both said our goodbyes and left for the airport with Laura now in an even worse state with a full blown migraine. The moment we arrived she was on her knees with strawberry flavoured vomit full flowing from her mouth down the nearest toilet. A while later after checking ourselves in with Laura desperately trying to keep down chunks we reached the departure lounge where a second display of fluid gushed out- this wasn't looking good!

Two hours passed with Laura passed out on my lap and me being kept amused by the very soap like antics of the hordes of Aussie's around returning home. One couple in particular brought a grin that I found hard to stop reaching cheek to cheek when they had a hilariously loud argument from one side of the room to the other using all the cliched sentences you would expect on 'Neighbours' along with an impressive vocabulary of swear words.

We then got on the plane and Laura thankfully fell asleep for the entire journey to then awake just as we were landing through a rather nerve racking lightning show just outside our strobing window. Soon after our feet touched Australian ground for the first time the small remains that existed in Laura's stomach then decided that they also would rather come out then stay in. Luckily again she re-introduced herself with her food in a nearby toilet instead of on the lap of the woman at passport control who we were a few feet away from at the time. Not the best start to a new country!

When we had collected our bags and reached outside we met a hugely helpful, friendly bus driver who said he would take us to Darwin town centre where we could get a good nights sleep in. He was a right character and I couldn't help but think of a certain Harold Bishop. We drove through a heavy, satisfying storm and reached a street packed with hostels, all of which were closed that is. Thankfully a hostel opened its doors for us after one short telephone call with a very lively man replying on the other end. We were met by a long goatee'd metal head with the most strange sense of humour but definitely all the better for it and shown to our room. A very clean room at that, complete with TV, air con, lush bed and even a fridge as standard, but this certainly came at a price. Our 10 pound a night days were now over and it would be four times the price at 40 quid from here on in!

Early the following day, two young cleaners got quite a shock when they opened our bedroom door to a rather naked me, outside of the covers complete with bits dangling off the bed- needless to say that we were quite shocked too! A marathon sleep session then took us up to 1pm where our bodies should have felt a lot more revived then they actually were. For such a short plane journey we were feeling more jet lagged then any other flight we had taken so far.

Getting breakfast at anytime of the day in Asia was never a problem but here in Darwin it seems everywhere closes at 2pm! Ok, so trying to get it at 1.45pm is a little lazy of us but restaurants actually closing this early for the entire day? This wasn't our only issue, it seems the food is also way WAY more expensive just like our accommodation and we were going to have to start cutting down on how much we eat which for me ends up in a grumpy Blake. Luckily not far down the road we found a place doing all day breakfasts and a whole menu full of delights for Laura and I. Our 20 pound breakfast was certainly worth it when it came out and it seems paying four times the amount in money lands you with four times the amount in food! Ohh we were happy, utterly stuffed and did I mention the mugs of coffee!?

Despite the best tummy full we'd had in a long while we were still incredibly sluggish and the day was almost over. We decided to take a stroll over to the nearest beach where we were met by a staggering sunset over the sea. We found a kid's playground and took a seat on the miniature swings where we stayed for hours nattering about our travels so far and the large amount still to come. It was one of those moments where we both took a step back on ourselves to realise what we are actually doing and achieving on this year off. At the point it hits you your body is just filled with huge excitement and a buzz that could make you just explode with joy. We didn't explode thankfully and headed to a local supermarket to buy some food for the next few days as eating out for every meal was not an option anymore! The greatest purchase was a box of Tetley tea bags which we made good use of just before we went to bed!

I was luckily dressed the next morning when the cleaners knocked on the door, both with big grins. We thought we would make more of an effort today to explore Darwin so made a packed lunch and headed to the Botanical Gardens. It was a beautiful well kept park full of green grass, pretty plants, interesting birds (of the feather kind) and friendly Aussie's! We munched our cheesy rolls on a bench under some palm trees and then moved on towards the rain forest area. A few minutes later we were suddenly met by a rather long yellow friend who was blocking the path to which we both quietly and calmly muttered something like "ohhhhh, uurmmmmmm". This snake was easily our biggest and most evil looking yet taking up the entire path in length! It slowly slithered across into the bush and we walked on still quite in control but with hearts beating somewhat faster. Within the next few seconds a lizard then jumped out from the under some leaves to which we both jumped a mile and when another creature made a sudden pounce I couldn't help but shout out at the top of my voice "FUUUUCK!!!!", right in front of a nice local old man as well! Things got worse from there and we both turned into utter nervous wrecks as we moved further into the forest and Laura just thought she was going to puke. We left shortly afterwards.

We then went to seek a new beach instead to relax a bit. It certainly did the trick as yet again we had an even more beautiful sunset filling the sky with waves gently crashing in front of us. It's not advisable to go in the waters here as at this time as they are filled with box jelly fish (in which we saw a few washed up) so we just sat up on the hill of the sand dunes and found each other pretty shells and watched the sun go down, awwww.

That night we received some big news from home about our wedding next year. Not only had the vicar said the date is free in the church for when we want it but we also might have found the perfect location for the after party in a lovely looking barn nearby! We then spent the evening and almost entire following day making further plans and replying home some ginormous emails full of questions eager to be answered. Still, it was good to conserve our energy as we prepared to hit the infamous Aussie outback!

Asia All Over!

Ubud was the first place we were both genuinely sad to leave and we kept telling ourselves that the extremely large group of French tourists would have upset the atmosphere for us. After taking pictures of this now momentous location and its staff we headed for the coast of Sanur.

The guide book talks Sanur down, nicknaming it snore and devoting far more pages to the party town of Kuta, but our loved-up selves opted for the quieter site in search of another romantic patch. Finding a reasonably priced hotel with a beautiful garden and blissfully warm swimming pool complete with benches around the edges for prolonged lounging, we soon started to settle in.

First things first, we headed for a stroll along the white sandy beach just metres from our hotel. the sand was pure white, the sea aquamarine, the sun beating down. However, we both acknowledge that we are becoming beach snobs, as the sea weed washing in with the waves put us of slightly- I guess it is like wine connoisseurs who can't go back after developing their palates! Nevertheless, we enjoyed our stroll as we paddled along the shore and made plans for the next few days. For the rest of the afternoon, which was slipping away fast, we luxuriated in the swimming pool to which all other swimming pools will now be compared, whilst chatting to a self proclaimed "big mama", whose tired face still undermines her 60 years, the atmosphere here must have helped to retain an air of youth. She chatted openly about her big family of 5 children and plenty more grandchildren, how she lost her husband to cancer when her youngest son of 16 was just 6 months old and her struggles since then with two jobs, which although initially successful was still not quite enough after tourism dipped following the bombs. Even now the hotel is half empty and while we appreciate he solitude she is struggling to get by. I promised to employ her services before we leave as she offers massages by the pool for just 3 pounds and hour- a bargain in anyone's books!

The next day we could not resist a morning back by the pool before an early lunch and a trip to Jimbaran Bay. It is a beautiful stretch of coast that during the day is very quiet with the exception of locals fishing. to one side of the bay was a plethora of brightly coloured fishing boats, with many more bobbing out at sea. Behind the beach cafes lined the sand, almost empty but for the waiters, waiting for customers.


Heading to the each with Blakey is like a taste of parenthood. After laying out our towels I made myself comfortable for a relaxing moment in the sun whilst he headed 10 metres away to play in the sand. As I drifted in and out of consciousness I kept lifting my head to ensure he was OK and would catch glimpses of him building sandcastles, playing in the waves, looking back and waving for my attention. Every now and again he would come back and tell me his story of what he'd been up to or ask me to go and play too.


A few hours later and the repetitive sounds of the ocean had worked their magic and we were left feeling peaceful and rejuvenated. However, upon standing up it was apparent that half the beach was stuck to my body. Blakey had a similar problem, though his game "Monster Legs" may have had a part to play. Washing ourselves off in the warm sea we dressed and headed to one of the many tables that had appeared from the restaurants as the sun started to head for the ocean. At this point the beach started to get more busy, though we had already secured ourselves the best table for a full view of the sunset which we watched with huge cocktails served in coconuts. A perfect cliche yet again.

On to our last full day in Asia, quite a landmark and signifying a third of our journey completed. We are pretty excited to be crossing into a completely different continent! We had discussed grand plans to travel down the peninsular and see another temple and more spectacular beaches, but after waking late and heading to the pool it was all so perfect we couldn't bare to leave! Blakey slept for hours whislt I returned to our "big mama" for yet another massage, though this was by far the best! Her maternal confidence meant she poked and prodded me in ways that others may have shied away from, getting handfuls of bum and eyefuls of boob- only Danni has given me a better massage! She kneaded away all tension, finishing with my scalp and then plaited my hair- I think she enjoyed mothering me as much as I enjoyed the experience! I promised to come back when we return to Bali (in a couple of years?!!)

We finished our incredibly lazy day by writing postcards and diary entries. Indonesia has been incredible, the sights, the people and the most significant decision we have made so far. Bring on Australia!

Happiest Man Alive!

Well, someone woke up this morning with a muzzy red wine hangover alongside an excitable bride to be prodding me to quickly get dressed so we could tell everyone else back home on eFacebook our amazing news! The tingles in both our bellies came bouncing alive again and within seconds of changing our status updates the messages came flooding in, some from people I've not spoken to in over ten years. We could have stayed glued to the Internet for hours clicking the refresh button but it was about 2am back home so we had a whole day to wait until most people would find out.

A giggly breakfast followed whilst showing off some bling ring action to the hotel staff, who seemed chuffed we had done it here. one guy told us how he had heard us on the balcony late last night celebrating- oops! So what does one do the day after getting engaged? Why, go hang out with a few hundred monkeys in the forest, that's what! We headed back through town to get there, going in and out of some of the most interesting shops we have come across and a few purchases were made, although we would have loved to buy a whole heap more! If we had to choose one place to spend a fortune on decorating our house this would be it.

We arrived at the ticket box for the forest where there was a huge table full of bananas and a path full of long tailed Balinese macaques up ahead looking rather hungry. feeding time soon followed with the incredibly hairy ones, with males biting in with their large canine teeth alongside the amusingly bearded females. With 95 adult females to just 35 males here, someone is getting their fair share of loving in, and with about 170 infants they must be constantly at it! The young males seem to start their sexual interest early as Laura was forever walking away from them trying to lift up her dress. Who wouldn't though? I had a bit of luck too, when on several occasions I sat amongst them and one would slyly out his hand deep into my pocket to see what he might grab a hold of. It was all very funny until one macaque used his teeth on my leg instead, followed by him pouncing on me which was a little too much for my liking but pretty hilarious for the camera footage!

We eventually left the forest which would have been a beautiful walk even without the monkeys. The surroundings were full of house-sized trees with huge twisting vines dangling over bridges and rivers. Passing endless rice paddies and finally spotting some ducks (we have been hearing at loud volumes fro the last couple of nights but been unable to see) we reached our hotel again where it was time to use he swimming pool at last! Although a slightly colder than expected dip resulted in a quick drying session a few minutes afterwards.

Evening was approaching fast so I walked into town to find us a big bottle of champagne (which has been quite hard out here, no-one seems to even know what it is) whilst Laura typed up three lengthy emails home so our families could read how our recent marriage news came about!


Two hours later I returned with a bottle in hand to Laura who was just finishing typing. The bubbles on the balcony flowed fast and it wasn't long until we realised we were getting trashed, the last three months have been the longest we've gone without drink since we knew what alcohol was! Out came the camcorder, which is never a great idea at times like this, and we both made lengthy slurred toasts to our friends and family back home and then continued bu making up some truly awful melodies with lyrics along the lines of "we're getting Maar-ied, we're getting maaar-ied!" over and over, which we sang out loud to the probable enjoyment of the other people staying in the hotel and the slightly confused ducks below us. At the point Laura started taking pictures of me as I believed I was a monkey we prudently moved inside, but from the video footage after that it looked like things got even more wild and noisy- you will just have to see the video when we get back!

Well,. someone woke up this morning with an even muzzier champagne brained hangover alongside an excitable bride to be prodding me to quickly get dressed so we could check what new people had commented on our facebook news. If I'd known getting married meant getting wasted and partying all night long I would have asked Laura years ago!

A lovely response yet again on the Internet with a tasty-yet-not-sure-if-I-should-have-eaten-it-yet scrambled egg sandwich later we spent the next few hours completely relaxing. Laura played DS sudoku, cracking puzzles at alarming speed considering the night before and wrote yesterday's blog and edited down the video footage of the last week in which so blooming much has happened!

We then went back into town for a meal at a tasty restaurant we just can't get enough of, it's all so damned tasty but it does come at a price- although we're on our engagement honeymoon so everything goes, right?! So I then sent Laura off to get a Balinese massage and pampering for the next two hours and headed back to a shop we'd seen on the first day to buy myself a mask! With hundreds of the most intriguing carved faces I've ever seen made by tribes in Timur, each one look like i could possess some kind of spiritual power, it made deciding somewhat tricky and I came away with three- oops! But I got a cracking deal and like i said, honeymoon, yeh?!!

Later Laura came back glowing and even more beautiful and we got ready for our last evening here in Ubud. At home it was bonfire night so we celebrated the event by going to the Taman Sari temple to watch a Kecak and Fire Dance performance. neither of us knew what to expect other than snapshots we had seen on postcards. We arrived to the small temple and sat ourselves down on chairs arranged in a small semi-circle with just a handful of other people joining us. There was no actual stage or orchestra here, simply a large candelabra with around 50 flames blazing upon it in front of a set of stone steps flanked by a decorative archway. At this point I wasn't expecting much, but suddenly a choir of a hundred bare-chested men appeared dancing with their hands in the air, using rhythmic vocal noises as the instrumentation. It became very apparent we were about to see something truly unique! The hundred man band with their fascinating "Cha cha chiki cha ki" chants then sat down to form a mass circle three men deep around the flaming centre piece. With our feet touching the backs of some of the dancers this was one seriously close and personal performance!


The first dance was a rendition of the Ramayana story which we have seen a couple of times already since starting our travels, but yet again this was a totally different visual experience to the others and possibly by favourite so far. Awesome costumes elaborately decorated on some of the most impressive dancers I have ever seen telling the story with exquisite detail down to what each little finger was doing. The story is epic and the dance suitably long, but never once did I stop feeling that initial sense of amazement.

Next out were a female choir who sang beautiful melodies over a smaller chanting male chorus. This time two child dancers performed the Sanghyang Dedari dance, moving like two little caterpillars with fans becoming more and more frantic until they eventually burned out and laid down, at which point the women cradled them and a holy man blessed them with water. The dance is said to rid a village of evil spirits.

Finally was the Sanghyang Jaran dance. We knew this was going to be spectacular when a huge mound of coconut husks were covered in petrol and lit. Next out came a man riding a wooden horse, circling the flames. After a few minutes of dancing around the fire he suddenly kicked the flaming embers across the floor sending them in all directions, including directly at the audience! A huge piece of red hot coconut shell flew towards us and hit Laura's shoe. Kicking it aside it smoked under the adjacent chair for the rest of the performance. It was quite a shock to the audience and unsurprisingly a father flew from his seat to lift his young daughter out of harms way. As dangerous as it seemed the spectacle of it all left the audience buzzing and the performance ended to huge applause. It was one of the most incredible things I have ever witnessed.

After the show we went to a perfect restaurant and reflected on our time in Ubud. With a beautiful wife to be in front of me, without whom none of this would have ever happened, and the last few months crammed full of the most breath taking memories, I couldn't help but feel like the happiest man alive.

Bali Marvellous News!

After a mammoth travel session I awoke the next morning to a chorus of duck calls and rooster crows. Bloody hell they can make some noise! Waking in our crisp white sheets, spotlessly clean and tastefully decorated room was bliss, but at twice our budget we planned to leave and find cheaper lodgings elsewhere. However, I was not going to give up my first taste of hot water in almost three weeks, so whilst Blakey snored I ran a bath.

Unfortunately the bath was cold. Oh dear. I had a very shallow dip in that strange way where to submerge each new body part is a challenge and leads to a sharp intake of breath, though after a few minutes it was bearable. waking sleeping beauty with a kiss he was disappointed to hear of the water situation, though moments later he emerged from the bathroom with a mixture of pleasure and pity on his face, he had just run a hot bath.

As I packed the last few items Blakey headed down the street to check availability elsewhere, though returned sooner than anticipated. The owner had offered accommodation here at a greatly reduced price as business was slow. Still over our budget we decided to finish our Asia run in style and settled for our luxury pad. In the morning light the view from our balcony of rice paddies interspersed with palms trees, the swimming pool right next to our room and gentle sounds of running water and birds (they stop making such a racket at more civilised hours!) it seemed we had found a slice of paradise and were instantly growing attached to Bali.

After a delicious and reviving breakfast we headed for a stroll around town, planning to save anything more strenuous for when we had fully recharged our batteries. Ubud is another creative and artistic community, we walked through shops and market stalls full of interesting masks and figures, batik prints and handmade jewellery. The most blissful aspect was that no-one was pushing their stock on us and we were able to browse at our own pace. Dotted along the roads were picturesque gateways and shrines often guarded by a pair of gargoyle-like animal figures with animated faces and intricately carved designs. the whole town had an interesting and utterly relaxing vibe, which when combined with the golden sunshine led to pure contentment.

By mid-afternoon, just as we were about to head in search of food we stopped at a shop selling batik materials where the saleswoman recommended we buy a sarong and go to the temple festival that evening. She explained that we must wear them, and though sceptical she gave us a good price so we both left with new skirts in hand. Spying a tourist information point we decided to gather a few more facts and were thrilled to find it was not a sales tactic but real advice. We were going to a festival that evening and the dress code was mandatory- thank you that woman!

After a delicious and slightly extravagant meal in yet another picturesque setting surrounded by tropical plants in a shady garden we decided to spend the last couple of hours of the afternoon on our balcony. A pot of coffee, diary writing, picture viewing and suduko. Perfect!

Feeling refreshed and taking ages to get ready we headed to the nearby temple to witness the festival. We followed women carrying huge platters of fruit balanced with grace and poise on their heads to the temple where we entered to find a true community vibe. With everyone dressed in temple costume the children looked particularly adorable as they raced around with big grins on their faces and the air of excitement that comes with such a large gathering. As the proceedings started the sense of family further increased when flowers used for prayers were put into the hair of the devotee and parents pulled a petal for themselves and placed the flower in the hair of children too young to maketheiur own offerings. The musky smell of incense wafted through the breeze and exotic music chimed through the air. Throughout the ceremony a man in an elaborate costume and mask made animated chants towards the temples and a group of women performed a religious dance involving lots of hip wiggling and waist twisting.

Walking back hand in hand we both reflected on how lucky we have been to experience so much in the last 3 months. I'm sorry to both our mums for saying this, but we also discussed where we would like to return or visit next time and have already started planning a future trip. As Blakey was peckish we headed to the luxury restaurant from earlier, now bathed in romantic candle light. We shared a delicious cheese platter and I had a very nice glass of red wine- my first out here, and couldn't help thinking how much Danni would have enjoyed the evening.

The starlit stroll back through the rice paddies with the chorus of birds was the perfect end to the perfect day and we sat on our balcony to finish it off. Blakey left to go and find something to drink as the cool breeze gently soothed after a warm day in the sun. I waited for what seemed like ages for him when he returned without drinks but gave me a huge kiss. Shaking, he said he had just made a call to my Dad and I knew what was coming next. Both of us giggling, nervous and excited, he got down on one knee and asked me to be his wife, presenting me with a beautiful ring. Neither of us were able to talk ass we hugged and shook but I eventually managed to croak yes as he placed the ring on my finger! Amazing!


Blakey then really did head for something to drink and I tried to call my mum. It was nearly midnight here so about 4pm at home, though she often manages to answer her phone at work. She didn't, so when Blakey returned we called his Mum and my wife (she deserves to know we're getting a new husband!) and left about 15 missed calls on my mum's phone! We drank our way through a bottle of red wine, giddy before we even started, and just to make the whole thing utterly perfect (verging on cliche, but in this case it seems appropriate!) Blakey saw a shooting star- how's that for a good omen?!

At 2 am local time we eventually spoke to my mum, though the missed calls and my Dad's shifty excitable nature had given her a pretty big clue as to what might be about to happen. My siblings' reactions were better, Bryony's response being "Why?" Shocked she would even ask I repeated what I had said and she gasped and laughed. She thought I had said I was getting "worried"! Tara assumed I was drunk and calling so squealed extremely loudly when she realised!

Tummy's still flipping we couldn't wait for morning to put the news on Facebook and let everyone know. Eventually we managed to calm ourselves. Without the wine we may never have slept!!

The Land Before Time and the Journey of Long Time

Today was never going to be much fun as a full twelve hours worth of bus was scheduled taking us to the small village of Ngadisari where we'd get a few hours sleep before rising at 3am in order to climb Mount Bromo and see sunrise, pretty hardcore! Being sat on a bus listening to hours worth of music on our iPods and sleeping isn't exactly strenuous, but when you get a bus like we did today, it can be totally unbearable. The worst thing about our crammed 8 seater minibus was the can of petrol behind our seats pouring fumes into the non-existent air thanks to our driver, who didn't want any windows open as it would affect the air-con, which didn't work in the first place! Next up was the driver himself who spent 60% of the journey on the wrong side of the road, overtaking anything in his way no matter how dangerous the timing was, it seemd we were back in China again! Did I mention the seats? Very reminiscent of the kid's slide from the night bus from hell, how hard is it to design a seat you can actually sit in wiothout battling gravity? We were joined in the back by a very grumpy looking giant who took up too much room, spoke one sentance in twelve hours and when he fell asleep had a loveable need to rest his big head on my shoulder.

By the time we stopped for lunch Laura said she could quite happily burst into tears, and when her egg and noodles was presented with a helping of chicken I think that was the end! We pushed on into the night and reached the bus companies office where we were given different options for seeing Bromo. The best place to view the sunrise was to climb Gunung Penanjakan (2770m) which would take three hours to ascend by foot or just under an hour by jeep. After such a disastrous struggle of a journey here we chose the jeep, generously allowing us a lie in until 3am as opposed to 1.30am, hopefully bringing a smile back to our faces.

We left the office on yet another bus to our hotel, with yet another incredibly bad driver who felt the need to stop at every given opportunity. Arriving at our mountain stay we both had gasoline headaches and the need to sleep for a week, but first had to sort out Laura's distinct lack of food today. We ordered up the only veggie option on the menu, noodles and veg, though you might be able to guess what it also included by now? Yep, meat and noodles and veg! With a cup of coffee that was more like sand and hot water this was turning into one of the hardest days yet. After half an hour's worth of trying to swat a super-fast collection of flies in our room and failing we gave up and went to sleep.

At 3am the sound of the now most annoying melody in the entire world rang from the mobile phone. Bleary eyed we wrapped ourselves up in layers of clothing, it was a lot colder than we had anticipated. Our first few sentances to each other were in the form of snappy arguments over how crushed boots were when we unpacked them, a conversation not worth writing about but let's say we were both incredibly tired and incredibly grumpy!


We dragged our feet to our jeep alongside some rather cheerful and upbeat ladies from the Netherlands and drove in the dark morning sky up hairpin rocky paths to the summit of our viewpoint. The moment we got our first proper glance of the surrounding landscape it became instantly apparent that the evenmts leading up to this were completely worth it. This place was something else, something you would see in a dinosaur movie with a billion dollar effects budget- it really was like the Land Before Time in real life! We had a picture perfect outlook to smoking Bromo, the Tengger crate and Java's largest mountain, the steaming spectacular Gunung Semeru pumping into the beautifully lit sky. At the base of the huge 10km across caldera was a fairytale layer of mist covering a bed of ashen sand. Truly magical.


We stayed there for an hour taking endless photos as the sun crept over the mountain before grabbing a hot coffee to warm our very cold hands. Next up we got back into the jeep and drove to Bromo, passing monkeys and some staggering scenery at the base of the mountain, leading to yet more stops as we begged the driver to pull over in the flat sandy desert surrounded by volvcanic peaks.

We arrived at Bromo shortly afterward and were greeted by hordes of men on horses offering a ride up, but it was time to do a little exercise so we declined and pushed up the rocky trail before climbing the 253 steps to see the belly of the beast. As truly amazing as it was, it absolutely stank of sulphur and was the only time in my life that I have needed to use my inhaler because of a smell. The big cloudy fumes were guzzling out of this very active volcano into the now bright blue and blazing sky.

Another hundred photos later and we descended back down to return to our hotel completly buzzing. Within an hour the reality that we were facing another entire day of bus journey hit us, and all we wanted to do was sleep. If it was going to be anything like the day before that was not going to happen until gone 10pm.

Fast forward 11 hours and one gruelling trip and we finally reacvhed Denpasar, Bali, where with both our eyes barely opn we decided to take one last taxi ride to Ubud in order to secure a lie in the following day. A further hour later we arrived at our planned accommodation but as Bali is a further hour ahead than Java lights were off and everyon appeared tucked in bed. We went on one final (and desperate!) search wandsering this rather lushlooking street before stumbling across a honeymoon lovepad at a place called Uma sari. Sleep soon followed!